Busan is a better city than I'm giving it credit for. It's also a more expansive city than what I'll be seeing on this visit. I'm already trying to understand how I can contort a stop here. The main problem is there's a whole host of cities in Asia that I don't mind a two-day stop in. Busan is at least quite well connected to other places in Asia at least. Probably the main thing I didn't really do in my time here is do some of the hiking that exists at its far extents and parks and rocky islands. There's a lot of it, but it takes (a) a lot of time to get to and (b) some time to traverse. If this was a place where hiking was the only thing, I would've. On my planned 2022 trip, I had three days in Busan, so probably would've done a bit more as well. Anyway, that's for next time - this is about this time.
The first stop of the day that took the whole morning (granted, it's because I left the hotel at 10:30) was the Beomeosa Temple complex, located 30 minutes (45 with traffic, which I had) to the North of the city. It is still technically in Busan, but up a winding road when you reach the Temple, you feel like you are in another world. The Beomeosa is hard to describe in a way that will be compellingly different to what I said about the Samgwangsa Temple, but it was different. First, it was larger, and more building into a clearing atop a hill rather than halfway up one. The size is a big jarring, as is the ludicrous (in a good way) amount of steps and gates, all with colorful lanterns adoring the span between the gates, until you reach the actual start of the temple complex.
Once at the top, it again is pristine, with a series of royal green and red buildings, really beautiful artwork on each when you get closer, and some lovely sightlines. Yes, it is a bit far to travel for a temple, but it is worth it. If there is any clear complaint of Busan vs say Seoul it is the temples are afield rather than in the city, but they use the scenery, the hills and all of it so well.
Back in the city, I headed to Jagalchi Fish Market, Seoul's glistening version of say the Tsujuki Fish Market in Tokyo. The whole first floor is a series of vendors selling live fish and seafood, which you can by for take away or take upstairs and get it lived cooked. If there's any issue here it was that it was a bit too expensive, but I had to try it anyway. The cooks upstairs basically ask you how you want the fish prepared and then cook it for you in about 10 minutes. It's so fresh, so good - a must do in Korea.
After lunch, I headed to a new area, a glistening part of Busan that borders the riverbank that extends off of Gwangali. The area is Centrum, and has a series of beautifully diverse, new buildings - from a twisting, metal of a building hosting the Busan International Film Festival, to giant office buildings, and then the Centrum Mall - a connected set of three buildings, each 10 floors up or so, and filled with all types of shops, from teh standard kitschy stuff to high end. The whole area is modern, lovely and a great walk.
So was Heaundae Beach, a more idyllic, serene beach compared to Gwangali. There is lovely sculptures, seating and sightlines - the place is beautiful, and a lovely way to end my tourism part of Busan. As mentioend up top, I've definitely left some stuff on the table for a future day or two in Busan - always better to do so that way I guess. The last stop before dinner was to Galmegi Brewing, which had some great IPAs, and a view of the beach - hard to top this.
Dinner did, though - a refined Korean-based tasting menu at Songgongan - highlighted with three or four courses spotlighting Korean Hangwoo grade Beef (basically their version of wagyu). The food was amazing, so well crafted by chef Park, who was there at the pass at basically coupled as the main waiter. Places like this in Busan are just amazing to come to - to see everyone's slightly different take at how good their cuisine can be.
After dinner, I checked back at a few of my favorite spots from the first few days - going first to Beer Shop, which was way more crowded today on a Friday, so much so I didn't really get mcuh time to chat with the Australian owner, but did with a couple other foreigners (Canadian, Brit) who were there as well. From there, I went back to Alt.comma, which so far is the best cocktail spot I've been to on the trip. It's the one spot I went to in Busan that serves its own unique cocktails rather than being an upscale spot serving high end whiskeys and standard cocktails (e.g. Wood Side Bar and Pavox). Alt.Comma is a great place.
The final stop of the night was at Melt, an EDM club conventiently located about ten minute walk from my hotel. It is a really nice set-up - a bit similar to Vent in Tokyo with exposed concrete, high ceilings and a lovely vibe. The one sad part was it wasn't all that crowded - maybe between 20-30 people when it could ahve held 50-75 without anyone feeling overcrowded. I asked one of the bartenders who put it up to the weather - I think I'm jsut underestimating the impact of a city being 15 degrees colder than normal. It was a great temperature for me, though, and I will say the 20-30 of us were having a great time. Busan isn't Seoul - it isn't overcrowded, it isn't massive - it is unique and lovely all by itself.
