2026 Japan Trip: Day 17 - Kyoto

Day 17 - The Temple Run

Kyoto, as mentioned previously, is a notoriously tourist heavy city. There is a clear reason for this, however, and that is the quality of the sites. Sure, the lovely city center, and alleyways and shops and what not are great, but its the sites that get people to come to experience those other things, and man are the sites great. I wanted to show my parents the best of Kyoto and also add one final site I didn't see last time, and do it all in a day where we had a large kaiseki meal at 7pm as the backstop. It all worked about as perfectly as it could've, on easily the sunniest day of the trip. In this case, the last real day of the trip went off just about perfectly.

It started by heading to the Northwest corner of the Kyoto area, where you can check off a few sites, the furthest afield is the Tenryu-Ji temple and associated Arashiyama bamboo forest. The Tenryu-Ji is a larger, but flatter version of teh Ginkaku-Ji yesterday, whereby still here the main piece is the integration with the forest around it. The temple buildings are also a bit more extensive, including a path where you can walk through 4-5 of them inside (shoes off, of course), but the magic starts when you take the garden route through the large, again perfectly manicured, sand areas, the large lake that stands near the main temple building and the scenes all around, from small waterfalls to beautiful moss and flowers. The best part is the back end of the Tenyru-Ji connects directly with teh Bamboo Forest, a large area with paths with giant, and I mean giant, bamboo stalks on either side. 

The bamboo forest area is lovely, with so many great moments of wonder of just how large and imposing these bamboo stalks are. The main part of the forest is about a 10-minute walk, but even aside from that there are paths extending connecting temple to temple with the stalks running the length of each path. If you had a week in Kyoto, maybe you do these intermediate temples as well, but if you're us with a day, you do the main area and then move on. The town area near the Tenryu-Ji also had some lovely shops, selling a few key items of interest - namely this superb chili mix that we tasted and bought a decent amount of. The whole experience here was a great start to the day, which only continued if not got enhanced.

The next stop was the Kinkaku-Ji, one of the most famous destinations and views in Kyoto, with its glistening gold pagoda. I already warned them going in that the main draw is right at teh start but they make you continue on the path - which ultimatley was shorter (and flatter) than I remembered. I did not give them much of a preview of what the Kinkaku-Ji, as I wanted to see their honest shock and awe when they saw it. That paid off, as they were slack-jawed at the sight of that beautiful four story pagoda, replete in gold from top to bottom, making an already ncie view (the lake, the plants and trees) even greater. The weather helped, with teh shining sun and mostly blue sky making it look even nicer. The rest of teh kinkaku-ji trail is as unneccessary as always, save for two bits. 

First, there are a couple viewpoints of the golden pagoda from other parts of the path, including an initial one from an elevated point which is just wonderfulf. Second, there is a little tea-house at the end where for a fairly nominal fee, you can get a nice matcha tea on a tatami mat in a nicely air conditioned tea house. Now, this is not at all a replacement for a proper tea ceremony, but with our time is limited we weren't going to be able to do a proper one, so this worked just fine.

At this point with the sun beating down on us, we needed a bit of a refresher, so we headed back to the main part of Kyoto and went to Musashi Sushi, which is a conveyor belt sushi spot in the heart of Kyoto. Yes, many look down on these places, but Musashi is well known of being better quality than most conveyor belt spots, and indeed it remained great three yaers later. What I like too is they are super quick in churning out new stuff when ti is close to running out on the conveyor, and they have way more nori wrap sushi options than just nigiri. 

After lunch, we had two more temples to see, first the Choin-In and then the Kiyumizu-dera, the only one of the day that I hadn't seen before. The Choin-In is to me an underrated delight. It is not one of the better known temples, even in that East of Gion area that holds a bunch of them, but I think it is fantastic. Part of the reason it isn't well known is I think it is actually being run primarily as an active place of worship, whereby the people operating it aren't really promoting it as a tourist destination. But you go and make the climb up the steps (or luckily for my parents, take a quick shuttle van ride). The Choin-In once you get past those steps is on a flat plateau before the mountains rise behind it. The best way to describe it is that it is big.

The main hall is giant, and so well built, designed and decorated - with peaceful fountains and lotus pots in front of it made out of jade. The inside of the main hall is stunning - gold buddhas everywhere, with other carvings and sculptures as well - along with clear "no photos" signs everywhere. The secondary buildings are also quite pretty - a really nice brown and sharp white combination everyhwere. Overall, the Choin-In is to me the most imposing temple and impressive purely from the aesthetic of the actual temple buildings itself.

The final temple though was the one I was looking forward to the most because we didn't do it last time, and that is the Kiyumizu-dera, a series of temples, gates, and more that rise from an already elevated start at the end of an uphill lane. At first, it seems fairly plain - many of the buoldings a striking red, but fairly small. But then you get past that first set of buildings, adn it becomes something greater, with a large striking red pagoda, and better than that, a great view of Kyoto behind you - high enough taht you have a clear view of a lot of the city, including the striking Kyoto tower.

Then this only continues with more buildings with more views, including the most impressive one, which is built literally with part of the entryway courtyard hanging over the cliff face, with this intricate lattice-work of beams supporting it. Apparently, it was built this was back in the 1500s and its just incredible - viewed better from a side temple that has the same design feature but smaller. At points, you can get the view of this unique, "hanging on a cliff" temple in one corner and the city of Kyoto in the other. The Kiyumizu-Dera is a can't miss, even if I did miss it previously.

From there, we had a bit of time to mingle around the shopping area, and me get a final last craft beer of the trip at Umineko before dinner. Kyoto really is buzzing in teh main area - and yes it is a bunch of tourists, but again, there is a reason people flock in such numbers to this magical city.

Dinner was our one super fancy kaiseki meal, though sticking to one at the low end of teh fancy kaiseki meal price range, at the two michelin star Ryosho. The meal was a perfect exposition of kaiseki cusiine, for better or worse (mostly better). As known to most, kaiseki meals are there to really feature the ingredients and techniques. The dishes aren't super crazy and creative, no foams and gels and shit. Just refined cooking of great ingredients - and that is what it was. Yes, would you want a bit more razzle dazzle at times? Sure, but the quality of what Ryosho served, from sashima that wouldn't be out of place at an omakase, to the best fried fish I've had in a while, to a crab chawanmushi, to perfectly cooked wagyu tenderloin, it was all so well made and cooked. You can quibble you want a bit more from two michelin spots, but as a kaiseki meal, it was excellent.

The last night actually had me trying out a few new places, with of course ending it, and ending the trip proper in many respects, at Barcode. The first spot was a small 8-seat bar called Mikke which specialized in craft beer and sake, quite a perfect combination after my heart. The two bartenders were lovely as was discussing trips and notes with a French couple that were there (my parents were there for that one). Yes, the bar is tiny, even for Japan bar standards, but full of love, life and great drinks, including a nice matrix style system of requesting sake (plottikng each type on a matrix of sweet v dry and rich v sharp. Their craft beer selection also included a wonterful coffee stout.

The next spot was actually, ironically, a block away from our AirBNB, in a nominally sleepy part of the Gion area, but Yamada Music Bar was not sleepy - it was in a relative sense fairly packed, a mix of locals, some tourists from Netherlands, and a family (parents and two sons) from Kumamoto, which was a natural entry point for me to chat with them about my time there, wihch they loved that I went. Yamada was a really nice spot - not close to much else so if I wasn't staying near it, it would be tough to go again, but as a place it is worth seeking out.

As is Barcode, which was humming - some folks that I met on Thursday Night, including the couple from Germany, were back. The German couple also convined many on a tour they did that were staying at a hostel to come, which added a group of about 12 youngsters. The music as always was great, the people were nice and friendly and chatty, the drinks are cheap but good (JW Black Highball for $5) and there is, to me, no better way to end a night in Kyoto and end a trip essentially, than karaoke at Barcode. Thsi is the image I wanted for the trip's end, both Barcode but also a graet last few days in Kyoto, and that is exactly what I got.

2026 Japan Trip: Day 16 - Kyoto

Day 16 - Rediscovering Kyoto

Deciding to end my trip in Kyoto was the plan from the beginning of planning this trip - from the time before my parents decided to come to Japan as well. The reason was simple - save the best for last. In prior Asia August/September trips (including the Japan one in 2023) I went to Southeast Asia for the last few days of the trip, because there was familiarity and a safe joy expected with ending the trip there. Kyoto is playing that role this time, a known quantity, a place I unabashedly love, and after a first full day back, I can confidently say I chose wisely.

The day actually started by leaving Kyoto and heading to Himeji to visit the famed Himeji castle, one of the other "Premier" castles within Japan (Kumamoto being one of the others, Matsumoto the third) and probably known as the most stunning. The castle is the only real draw for the city of Himeji, and they know it - placing the train station a 15-minute walk away from the castle keep, but that fifteen minutes is by walking down one long promenade from the station straight to the castle walls, with the central tower of the castle imposing itself mightily from the start. It's a pretty awe-inspiring view.

Like the other castles, that central tower is the main element, but you have to earn your right to go there by walking through the castle compound, in this case through a series of paths, gates and turns. There is a large courtyard in front of the tower, but unlike with Kumamoto and Osaka, that area is noly accessible once you finish with the tower - the path from the entrance gate taking you basically around hte back. The tower itself was a wonderful contrast to Kumamoto and Osaka, as the interior here was left basically untouched - it was as close to a truthful example of how it looked. 

Each of the seven floors explaing a bit of how the castle worked as a defensive force - from rooms with elevated counters around the perimeter from where soldiers could launch rocks at their enemies, to areas of nooks that were used as granaries. The castle is kept as it was - which also leads to having no elevator, and requiring you to take your shoes off. The actual staircases within the castle floors are fairly steep, but again there is a certain cool-ness in ascending and descending the tower the same way those did centuries ago.

From there we then got to the courtyard, which gave just great viewpoints of the castle, this one more black trim than Kumamoto's blue. In the end, seeing both of the two was a delight (and my parents saw the Matsumoto one, so across the three of us we've completed the set) and again I did like the contrast in the way they chose to go about the interior. Very much worth the trip to Himeji - but we were fortunate / smart in using the Shinkansen there, because the normal trains take about 1:45 from Kyoto (or 1:20 from Osaka) vs it being 45 minutes.

We were supposed thereafter to go to Kobe, which sits halfway between Himeji and Kyoto, but I was getting a bit of a worry we wouldn't have enough time tomorrow to do everythign I wanted in Kyoto (and everyhing I wanted to show my parents), and there was the aforementioned draw of the familiar, where I was able to convince my parents that we skip Kobe. Made easier by the fact they are taking a cruise from Hong Kong to Tokyo with many Japan stops, including one at Kobe. My realization of this change happened slightly too late to take one Shinkansen back, giving us about 50 minutes before the next one where we got a bento box lunch in Himeji station - a classic Japan tourist experience, and my wagyu sukiyaki bento box was lovely in its efficiency.

I had a clear set series of sites that I wanted to check off in Kyoto - a mix of new and repeats but playing the hits, mostly. We arrived back at the Kyoto station at 2:40, and I thought it best to finish off the farthest afield (or at least the one not near anything else) which was the Ginkaku-Ji temple complex Northeast of the city. Getting there was easy (uber) and as with most temples it has a mini-souvenir market frenzy around it. The walk throuhg the Ginkaku-Ji was lovely and a great introduction to why Kyoto temples are so incredible - namely, how seamlessly they integrate with teh nature around it.

The Ginkaku-Ji has a clear path demarked to take within it that starts off with the almost too picture perfect lake with beautiful trees, shrubbery, moss and the large sand gardens that are so well manicured and perfected. It's all so serene of a picture. From there you go up towards a point that serves as a lookout both for the temple complex below, but to a vewi of part of Kyoto from behind. The whole thing opened my parents eyes to why Kyoto is so special, as it did reaffirm taht for me as the Ginkaku-Ji was one of the temples that I didn't see last time - probably because it is a bit disconnected from the others. Overall, it was a great experience.

As was the next bit of Kyoto tourism which was just walking through the Nishiki Market streets, and the surrounding shiopping districts. The Nishiki Market is definitely being commercialized for tourism - more and more stands selling more "approachable" options like meat or seafood skewers. Granted, the skewers are good (we got a couple seafood ones, and yakitori) but many stalls now promote most heavily skewers of kobe beef and other premium A5 wagyu cuts, which go for aroudn 20k - 30k yen a stick (basically $14-20). Less present now are the stalls selling "weird" Japanese delights. This is definitely a change I noticed from the last trip. 

The surrounding shopping area is no less interesting than before how ever - so many great stores and mroe than that the decor. Spiralling out from the Nishiki Market are lane after narrow lane with generally a mix of residential real esetate and then one or two lovely shops with great storefronts and designs. Brilliance lives within these lanes, you just have to go seek it. The best way is truly just to get lost and walk around soak it all in.

From there we walked the fifteen minutes or so across the river to the central Gion area, the lantern-lit Edo-style street with more restaurants and shops. I was surprised that more of taht street is restaurants than I remember (would call it 75/25, vs something closer to 50/50 that I misremembered from the 2023 trip) but either way the style of the buildings, the lanterns coming on as dusk was settling in creates a lovely environment. But if your intention is shopping, it seems better now to remain on the western side of the Pontocho river.

From there my parents went to see a cultural show at teh Gion Center (which I do regre a bit not seeing) but I had another bit of familiarity to check out, a visit to Umineko Stand Bar, back near the Nishiki market. This beer bar is my favorite in Japan, and remains so. Yes, the whole standing element can get tiring, especially after a day with a lot of steps already, but the beer options - 24 taps, dozens of cans, all Japanese - was alluring. As was their menu, where I got a really nice lamb and lotus root meatball dish. In the end, the time at Umineko was as good as I remembered it being. And I don't think Umineko has necessarily hit the tourism circuit yet as the crowd was more locals than I expected given how overrun with tourists Kyoto was. On that point, Kyoto definitely seemed busier as a whole than last time - this isn't a bad thing. Kyoto is after all primarily a town about tourism by its own admission, but the secret is out globally, if it wasn't already in 2023.

Dinner was at Sumiro Man, a lovely, buzzing Izakaya a block or two away from Umineko (though of course I had to go back in between to shower, change, etc.). Like basically all Izakayas, or at least the ones I have been to on this trip, you had to order by QR code on a program that seems to have a monopoly on this particular ordering method all across Japan. However, for this one I didn't want to responsibility, so booked us for the "Sumiro Man" premium course where they pick about 8-10 plates for you to try. It was nice not having to be the chooser, and even if we missed on some stuff, the food on the set menu was generally quite good. 

The best was probably the wagyu sukiyaki that was the star of the show, live cooked in front of you - so sweet, so brilliantly soft, with also the associated vegetables within the dish (mushroom, tofu, scallions) all so tender as well. But prior to that, their other dishes of sashimi, fried chicken, roast beef salad were all nice. Their grilled meat dish served right before the sukiyaki, of a wagyu strip loin was great, if a bit annoyingly covered in a more Western style mustard sauce. The only other notable part was me trying sochu for the first time all trip and pretty immediately not liking it, or at least not getting it. Luckily, included in the premium course is an all you can drink aspect where I could quickly pivot to a much nicer highball.

Following dinner, the town was ablazze with Friday Night merriment on a lovely night, and I took my parents for a little walk before heading to Bar Caamm, wanting my dad to experience a true Japanese Whisky bar. They both got a kick out of the sheer number of whisky bottles covering every spare inch of Bar Caamm, and my Dad smilarly so in terms of the level of detail of which the menu goes into for the btotles. It was a nice experience for them, and a good start for me as well, before I headed to Bar Dram, which is similar in setup (whisky, and gin, focused) but smaller, more modern and more reminiscent to the bars I went to in Kyushu. This one definitely not on most peoples list, but out of the ten chairs, six (including me) were occupied and one regular who was definitely geting fairly drunk (in a good way) regaled me and a couple from France with some great stories. It was a perfect Kyoto bar experience - as was a brief stop at Rockign Bar ING, which again is reminiscent of Kyushu (or really all Japan) music bars - this one having been aroudn since the 90s.

The last stop of the night was part of that familiarity at Barcode, which was not as crowded as the night before. There were a few repeaters, including a nice American group who recognized me (as I did them), and then you get the fun of what groups come in day v day, such as a group from Ecuador stepping in for the group from teh Philippines yesterday, and then a large Indian group coming in towards the end fo my time there. All in all, the experience tonight at Barcode wasn't as memorable as last night (namely, music picked wasn't as much my speed - more K-Pop and Taylor Swift) but there is never a bad time at Barcode, and that's never a bad way to end your night.

2026 Japan Trip: Day 15 - Osaka & Kyoto

Day 15 - The Initial Audible

I think I alluded to this a couple times through this piece so far, at least when talking about the various rain-related challenges I had on the early parts of my trip causing me to audible a few times. Well, this trip had an audible even before it started, which was in the aftermath of the Kumamoto earthquake, even as the city itself and msot of the sites came back online, major damage to the Shinkansen tracks leading Southwards from Kumamoto created a elongated cancellation of Shinkansen heading down to Kagoshima. That was where I was supposed to spend a day but a 90-minute ride on the Shinkansen becomes a 3-4 hour journey on normal trains or car, so away went Kagoshima. That left me with the ability to fly this morning to Osaka, to eventually head up to Kyoto, the final stop on our trip. The day itself was supposed to end there either way, beut instead of a nighttime arrival, I was able to buy myself an extra city.

I first went to Osaka in 2013, where as i've said a bit, serious home sickness set in around that point. Probably didn't help that I went to Osaka first in Japan, a place that while it has great food and nightlife, there aren't a whole host of sites. So few that I'm not even sure where I did go this time I did in 2013 or not. 

I only had half a day or so total before a combination of both (a) wanting to head to Kyoto for the evening and (b) rain expecting to come through Osaka around 5pm. The flight from Kumamoto landed early (9:45 vs 10:10) and after a quick jaunt down to teh city from Itami airport using the Airport Limousine Bus, I had mroe time than expected. The main site that I wanted to check out was the Osaka Castle and associated grounds, a large expanse of greenery, moats, walls, and of course the eponymous castle. It is probably the main site of Osaka, and at this point the sunny, bright day made it all quite lovely.

The grounds are massive, with a series of gates and turrents and walls that lead you to the main castle in the middle, with a large courtyard in front of it. The castle itself is not as striking as the one in Kumamoto (the blue tint of the Kumamoto one is the tibreaker) but it is seemingly larger and more imposing. Much like with Kumamoto, they turned the inside of the castle into a museum, in this case with two floors full of "national treasures", a series of really great prints, fans, scrolls, drawsings, etc., The only downside was you can't take any photos - and they man it. I have never seen a place with more "no pictures" signs then this. And while I don't fully udnerstand what this was (and the prevalence of no picture museums and exhibits) I get it here as the pieces were truly incredible.

The higehr floors were less museum adn more about views and the views were nice, mostly of the large expanse of parks, gardens, buildings, etc., that make up the Osaka Castle grounds. On the whole, there is a good reason why the Osaka Castle is the main site of Osaka - both because it is great, but also because as noted, there aren't too many other places. The one notable part of this visit though was how many tourists, and particularly Western tourists there were. Had gotten so used to being with mostly locals and, I guess not unsurprisngly, other Asian tourists when touring Kyushu.

The next stop was a quick conveyor belt sushi lunch at a fancy looking strip mall in a park a block South of the Osaka Castle. Somehow, this was my first conveyor helt sushi restaurant of my time in Japan. Won't be the last, as that's the plan for lunch on Saturday. The next stop was supposed to be the Tenyaggu Shrine, but there is massive ongoing construction tehre that turns it into a non-site. Luckily it was more or less on the way back towards the main area of Osaka.

The last stop was the Umeda Sky Building, which is just awesome. It's a 50-story tall building with these interconnected glass outdoor tunnels, stairs, etc., connecting various floors on teh top, leading to two observatory floors with 360 degree views. The lower one is indoors and has the usual things like a cafe (an excellent cappuccino), shop, etc., but the top outdoor floor is incredible. From here, Osaka is massive, but also more green than I remembered - especially aroudn the two sets of rivers that run through the city. While, there aren't a whole lot of sites, the modernity of Osaka, and the few things I do remember from last time (the food, particularly in teh Dotonbori area), I do understand why it is a stanaard part of the Japan itinerary.

Nearby to the Umeda Sky building was a graet craft  brewery as well named Mother Tree. They had a vast selection of their own brews, and then cans avaialble for sale (their own plus many other craft Japanese brews). I chatted up a group of four Aussies who were just starting their time in Japan, giving them a few tips but mostly also secretly hating that they are at the beginning of their vacation and I'm naering the end of mine.

That hit home with the train to Kyoto - the last actual stop of this trip (not counting lunch on Sunday in Tokyo). Going in I have high expectations for Kyoto, a magical, wonderful city that currently I have is my #3 city to visit. The first night itself at minimum doesn't have me changing that opinion at all. We first went to our AirBNB (I'm back with my parents for Kyoto) in the Gion area, which was great except on the 2nd floor (walk-up only). From there we headed to the main area of Kyoto to walk aroudn a bit, soak in the alleys and sites and what not, until our dinner at Ibushigin Kayuza - the one repeat meal from last time. 

Ibushigin Kayuza is a "sake and smoke" izakaya - basically an izakaya that serves foods with some smoke element - some live smoked in front of you with the cloche and whatnot (the little amouse bouch of clams, a brilliant braised pork belly) or a bit more subtle (smoke infused sashimi). Either way, the food was great. They have a full bar, but their specialty is sake, which we sampled about 5-6 of. Overall, it was a really nice meal and entry point into Kyoto. As was talking my parents for a stroll aroudn the roads running parallel to Pontocho River, be it the famed small confines of Pontocho Alley, or the neighboring road with teh canal with tons of bars and nightlife. There were two cocktail bars I went to last time that I wanted to go back to with them but both had 30-60 minutes waits, and frankly neither are special enough to wait that much time. At this point, they bid me adieu and left me to roam this part of Kyoto.

The final stop was assured (Barcode, a great foreigner-heavy karaoke bar) but the stops there would be varied. I first went to Bar Caamm, a famed whiskey bar on the North side of the main canal road. This bar is noted for having over 400 whiskey choices, though this means most are from places that aren't Japan. Still, they had an extensive Japan list as well. I tried a couple and then tried out a more varied place in Kazuya which is quite an experiecne.

Kazuya is up two flights of stairs and their thing is to take you back to a pre-electricity age. There are no lights, everything lit by candles. There is no menu - you tell teh two bartenders what you want. Luckily, there are fans, but on the whole it is minimalism, but not in the cocktails, which were wonderful. The whole experience was unique, and wonderful/ Because Kyoto is so international and foreigner heavy, a lot of the bars skew that way (think Thailand, or the tweezery cocktail bars, that again aren't as good as the counterparts I went to in Tokyo), but in between there are these places like Kazuya, that for now seems like a hole in the wall known mostly by locals, but probably isn't too far away from being a foreigner spot as well.

What definitely is a foreigner spot is Barcode, but it is a lovely time. The crowd was mostly European, but on this today also more Japanese than I'm used to, and a Filipino group. Overall, teh crowd was great, the songs people requested and sung were all to my liking for the most part, and as is almost guaranteed in Barcode, you get to chat with folks over hte mic - including making friends with a lovely German couiple who are on a three month trip through Japan, spending a month of it in Kyoto. They were fascinated by my trip, "Oh, you are seeing so many places!" and me by theirs,  "Oh, you have three months!". Two different ways of traveling, but all roads lead to Kyoto and on this night, to Barcode.

2026 Japan Trip: Day 14 - Kumamoto

Day 14 - The Highlands of Japan

I'm learning something interesting comparing my touring aruond Kyushu to that of Hokkaido - which is despite Hokkaido being the north island and the home of skiing in Japan, unless you go deep into the ski slopes, Kyushu, the South island, looks no different - and in many ways as picturesque. Finishing up my time in the South Island today, and I can confidently say that I have loved my time here. Now, I like Sapporo a lot, and feel it unfair to make a direct comparison given how much weather impacted my planned itinerary in Hokkaido (which was basically monsoons the second I got outside the Sapporo metro area) verse how little it has impacted my time in Kyushu (other than one aspect we'll get to tomorrow). It may be sad how much waether can change your perspectives, especially in cases like this where the risk of rain is more or less the same in both Hokkaido and Kyushu this time of year, but one one of the two had the bad luck show up.

The main goal today was to see as much of Mt. Aso National Park and the surrounding forests and hills as possible, with knowledge that at minimum the caldera (crater) on top of Mt. Aso is off limits as there are still some potential concerns of eruption. Nothing imminent but random bits of gas getting thrown up every now adn then. From what I gather the continued closure (it's been a few months) is becoming somewhat controversial. Anyway, while taht is closed off, there are a lot of other joys sitting aroudn the actual mountainside itself and hills and valleys surrounding it.

Starting with my first stop of the day t the Kikuchi Gorge. Technically this is a long area, but one three KM stretch has been cordoned off and turned into a great nature trail featuring four or five waterfalls, some great sightlines, greenery, forestry and some magical surroundings. It is something that reminds me of similar waterfalls in say Luang Prabang (though oyu can't swim here) or other ares, but with a cooler air of Japan. The whole thing is well marked, takes 45-60 minutes (you can shorten in by 25-50% by taking the "small loop") and is a great entry point to this part of the world of Kyushu. However, all the other stops, at least that I went to, stray away from the depths of the forests into more aerial sights.

The next stop was the Daikanbo Lookout, which is a nearby peak close to Mt Aso where you can drive basically to the top. The only problem is while the air was cool, clear and calm below, the higerh you get up the mountain, generally once you get past the 2000 foot elevation mark, it starts to get very foggy. The Daikanbo Lookout is around 3,000 feet. Mt Aso tops out at 5,000 feet. So, basically at the Daikanbo Lookout, instead of really being able to see anything up, we could see patches of he farmland, the lush, lush farmland and towns and stuff below in fleeting moments between successive rolls of fog. It was wonderfully beautiful in an eerie way, and it was downright cold at the lookout and crazy windy. It was all a wild experience, if not what the scene should actually be showing.

From tehre you can drive quickly to the town of Aso (the route I took probably adds 30 minutes to just driving straight to Aso), which is a small town with a main drag with seemingly some restuarants that all seemed closed. I know for sure the one I had planned to go was closed on Thursdays (I had initially planned this Aso trp for yesterday), but instead went to this almost Wawa-like place that served hot food bar, grab and go food, and hot food made to order. The choice was endless and overwhelming and in the end I picked a handful of types of skewers and definitely didn't get theri best, but it was good enough. It was also at this point I got an email from Tabelog telling me my omakase meal was cancelled as the restaurant was unexpectedly closed, with a note from the owner saying he has hurt his finger so he cannot prepare the meal. I applaud them for the honesty and integrity, but it did suck. Panicking, I spent ten imnutes in my car finding random fancier spots taht had last minute availability, finally settling on an affordable omakase spot.

From there, I drove onto the mountainside of Mt Aso, going to the check-in point which I knew was closed beyond that. What I wasn't sure about was the four or so spots I had earmarked on Mt Aso, how many of those are similarly closed. Turns out at least two were, adn the other two were likely going to be similary foggy, and hazy and tricky to wander around in the case they were open, so I cut my losses and headed down the other side of Mt. Aso to a few more lookouts and sites. 

The ones on the other side were similarly beautiful, especially the views of the lush greenery. This was like driving throuhg Scotland or the Shenandoah Valley or something like this (actually the fogginess at the peak reminds me of a Shenandoah trip a few years back). It was all so beautiful - even when you reach back the ground level (the valley, basically) the views of the hills aroudn you are stunning. There are just endless lookouts and picture spots, some enticing enough to lead me to truly dangerous things like stopping on an empty road and grabbing a picture and hoping I could do all this before a car appeared at the end of the rearview mirror. In the end, it was a truly great drive.

Tehre were two last stops however, both done a bit impromptu. The less meaningful was a stop at Yamada Milk Company, a milk and (more notably) ice cream spot that had some lovely ice cream - where in Japan it taste a bit more like what the literal words should indicate - iced cream/milk. It was quite great, and right on the way back. The other spot before that though was just awesome - named Fairy Zoo, it is something of a petting zoo right in the foothills of the mountains, with again these imposing hills. In this little area, a couple and a few other farmhands have this little area of two stables and pens of first the fluffiest dogs ever, and then sheep (woolly as hell), goats & lambs, guinea pigs, chickens, donkeys and horses. The goats and lambs were the highlight - the pen had about 20 of them, including three of four tiny little babies. He would let people hold the babies, telling me taht the little adorable thing I held was just three days old. Not sure if this is true, but at most it wasn't much more than that.

There's another more open area (with low fences) which sits four or five pigs who were perfectly fat, about five turltes with some marvelously strong looking shells and a handful of capybaras. Look, I'm not normally a zoo person, and even less so a petting zoo person, but this was on the way, had some amazing reviews and is maybe the best mom and pop run business I've ever seen in therm sof hteir gentleness (the animals, for once, look happy) and care for customers. If you are ever planning a day trip in the Mt. Aso area, try to make a stop at Fairy Zoo possible.

It took a while to get back because I had put my rental return as the airport, but after moving my flight up tomorrow, the rental would be closed. The airport is directly on the way back from the South end of Aso, but it is frustratingly far away from the city (which also has implications for my taxi tomorrow morning). I have no diea why this city has its airport so far away. I get that more people in Japan take trains to travel around, but Kumamoto is actually more well connected to more cities than say Nagasaki, but the airport sits a good 40 minute ride away.

After finishing, I only got back to my AirBNB at 6:15, giving me some time to pack up as much as I can today in advance of tomorrow as it will be an early start. My dinner was a Kaiseki place whose name is in Japanese, but was a really great 4.02 on Tabelog (and 4.6 on Google), and affordable at around $90 and was as exacting, careful, delicate as you would expect. It is crazy how fresh some of the ingredeints are. The highlights were the horse sashimi (which was insanely good), a really wonderful unagi preparation with a little herb on top that he called "tree bud" but gave this almost lemongrass like flavor, to what was probably the best dish of the night, a brilliant miso soup with little dollops of miso flower in it and maitake mushroom, eggplant and lobster. The whole meal was wonderful, especially as something i had to rush and book last minute. In the end, probably better to add another kaiseki meal instead of a third sushi omakase.

From there, I first went back to Bar Ladybird, as it is a graet place with a really earnest barman and he was also the person who gave me the recommendation of Yamada Milk House. The drinks were great again, with once again great little presentation boxes - one replete with moss and deer, his interpretation of the forests around Mt. Aso. The next stop was a new one, and a place that makes me wonder if I've missed out on similar places elsewhere. It's name is basically Japanese Sake Bar (not sure if the name is more inventive in Japanese). It basically serves sake (obviously) but throws in a lot of extras. First, anyone coming gets three shot-sized portions of sake for free, along with two appetiziers (more amouse bouche sized) as part of the cover charge. Then, if you order a sake glass, you get three more shot sized tastings. In the end, you can sample a bunch for not all that much, and it was wholly a great experience. The last stop was Rock Bar Days, which may end up as my last traditional rock bar that I will visit on this trip, but again just hit the spot with cheap highballs, a good crowd, great music, and a great way to end my time in Kyushu - where you can really tell it is less foreigners, it is more real and it is so worth visiting. Sure, not on your first trip to Japan, but definitely on a second.

2026 Japan Trip: Day 13 - Kumamoto

Day 13 - A City Lost to Time

I don't know how to think of Kumamoto after my first day here. I should start by overall it is a net positive, and I'm happy I came, especially after their recent earthquake. The earthquake was mostly impactful in the area South of hte city, while the city proper didn't take too much damage, but still the toiurism part of the economy, as expected, would be impacted. But waht I can't get a good sense of is how many tourists there actually are. Kumamoto is a palce of contrasts. In theory, if you look at a map, it would seem to water is close by, but the city itself is mainly in a valley with rolling hills on every side to where you would think you are in Denver. It is a larger city by population than Nagasaki, but with way less cabs, way less locals enjoying the nights (and it's a fair comparison since I went to both places on generic weekdays). It is a lovely city, maybe the most walkable of the ones I have been to, but also that is needed, since it is hard to get cabs at night. Anyway, again, not sure how to classify it overall other than you are going to a place that seemingly doesn't depend on tourism, and that is just fine.

My morning train journey took two stops, three trains, and thirty minutes of waiting in stations, but end to end 90 minutes, which is almost annoying in that the actual train journey segments were all super short. Also weird, as the crow flies Nagasaki and Kumamoto are close by, requiring a ferry on the coastal town of Shimabara which sits in between, but there is no fast train to Shimabara, so that seemingly more close route takes way longer. Anyway, I made it to Kumamoto on schedule at 11am, with a lot of time on my hands, and a car to drive around the city - keeping the car for both days as the AirBNB has a parking spot and most of tomorrow will be spent far afield in the Mt. Aso park area.

Having a bit of time to kill before lunch, I went to the Southeastern edge of the city to a large strip of land hugging the Kase River named the Suizenji area. The defining element is a series of parks, from a more traditional one with a couple small temples on its northern edge (where I went), and then things like a fishing area, a more proper botanical garden and a zoo. I went to just the main first garden, which was beautiful and serene. Even in this small area, there is a range of landscapes, heights, shrines, shrubs, hills, etc. It is a really nice 20-30 minute stroll and the hills that sit far off in each direction give it a great calmness. This was my first introduction to the hills of the Kumamoto region, which would be its defining takeaway - that and maybe the cartoon bear Kumamon (more on taht to come).

From Suizenji, I was fairly hungry as I avoided picking up any snacks on my various train stops, and went to lunch back in the main area of the city. It was another unagi spot, with a Japanese name. This one was a weird dichotomy of having the largest footprint, quite fancy decor, and was packed, but of the three I've been to on this trip, actually found the unagi itself slightly lesser than the otehr two. Still great, however, and they had a really nice miso soup and even little dessert, and was no more expensive than the others. Still would recommend, but wouldn't if it were someone's only time having an unagi box lunch. 

At this point, the rain was going to hold off for the day (I have to say, other than that first day in Fukuoka, I've been exceedingly fortunate with weather during my Kyushu time), so I decided to wait on Mt. Aso for tomorrow, and finish the sites of Kumamoto today, with the main ones being the area right off its main heart, where the Kumamoto Castle sits. The castle is a reconstructed version of the iconic older Kumamoto Castle from the Edo times, and today is seen as one of the three premier castles in Japan (the Himeji Castle, where we are going later in the trip, and the Matsumoto Castle in Nagoya being the other two), and you can see why. The walk up the main keep takes you on this cantilevered route along the walls where you get good views of the turrest and side buildings, and this imposing nine story beast lingering behind, in a sharp blue and white. It is truly striking, along with again the great hills in the distance. I can tell, having seen similar castles a couple times that there is a reason why this one is held in such high regard - and am excited to see if Himeji can match it in terms of picturesque awe.

The castle interior is slightly disappointing compared to the outside, as it is now a museum to the history of the castle itself, with some old artifacts, but a bit hollow compared to if they just made it a recreation of what they castle would've looked like. Granted, maybe the castle interior back in the day was fairly a whole lot of nothing anyway. Also they were adamant that anyone without a real excuse had to walk up the stairs to visit all eight stories. I would've rather taken an elevator up to the top and then seen it reverse, but alas not possible - and probably a good thing as it saves the best for last, which is the viewpoints from the top floor. THe views from here are lovely - most of Kumamoto maxes out at aroudn ten floors (lower than the castle, when you add in the height of the keep and walls, etc.), so you mostly get views of the hills and farmlands and lush greenery. It was gorgeous, and a crsip, I guess almsot fall, air made it all the better.

The castle sits in the middle of a larger park, which houses the Kumamoto Art Museum on one side, which was on my list. It was an intersting place that had two great exhibits that I wholehartedly enjoyed, but an aggressive no pictures policy for like 80% of the pieces. The first exhibit was "Renoir in Japan" where apparently during the Meiji Restoration, the Japanese took particular interest in the worsk of Renoir, including having a few Japanese artists move to Europe to learn under him. That gallery was abuot 40% Renior's, 50% of his Japanese disciples, and the remaining 10% of other impressionist masters (your Pissaro's, Sisley's and of course a couple Monet's - I remain astounded that basically every major art museum in the world seems to have 1-4 Monet's). The permanent exhibit was of their own collection of all Japanese artists from Kyushu, many from Kumamoto, which was lovely - your classic prints, scrolls, folding barriers and then some really nice paintings as well - with the only issue that 90% of it had a "no photo" sign next to it. The 10% they allowed photots were pretty clearly the 10% you wouldn't really want to take a photo of, since the other 90% was better.

The last bit of museum-ness was in the Northwest corner of the castle park, which sits the City Museum of Kumamoto - which was similar to the city / cultural museums I had been to in Fukuoka and Nagasaki, with a couple interesting differentiating points. First, a lot more of it was about the nature of the region - with a great exhibit showcasing the variety of native animals, fish, butterflies, birds, etc., and second, more focus was on daily life in teh city than just the wars and conquests and what not. It wasn't the biggest museum (and like most, had one of their exhibits currently closed - batting 1.000 on this trip of having some part of any museum I've been to closed), but it was a nice side quest at the end of the larger Kumamoto Castle complex as a whole.

My last stop before checking into my AirBNB was to go to the city center and visiting the large, funkily designed (externally) mall that houses the Kumamon Village store. Kumamon is a cartoon black bear with red cheeks that is basically hte unofficial city mascot. His visage is everywhere, from signage to all over the airport, and bust stations, to much more. For instance, the mall connects to an indoor plaza that houses a train station and two office buildings, and in the rotundo of an area liekly traversed mostly by white collared salarymen is a large Kumamom statue. So, Kumamon Village is a store that much like the Snoopy Village I went to in Otaru, sells a bunch of Kumamon stuff. I couldn't resist, even worse than with teh Snoopy store, wehre this time I did give in to my weaker instincts and got myself the second smallest of five sizes of plushies. 

The AirBNB was lovely, a really nicely decorated apartment with both a western full size bed and a tatami area/bed. Also, as AirBNB is coming under fire as we speak in Japan, crucially, this one was owned by an actual couple as a second apartment in the building they live. I say this because that is different to my AirBNB in Tokyo and Fukouka, which are owned by companies that own many units in buildings that are becoming de-facto hotels. Both of the two I stayed at were good and I think reasonable values for the cost (especially since hotels are the one thing that is not cheap in Japan despite the weakness of the yen), but these types of pseudo-hotels are becoming a big talking point. During my trip, the local government of Shibuya in Tokyo announced they were making these types of rental businesses illegal. They are giving AirBNB owners like the lovely couple of the Kumamoto place a bad wrap. I did appreciate the nice touch of actually meeting the hosts.

Before dinner, sitting a nice five minutes walk from the AirBNB, is a beer bar called 25 Brews, which is probably the closest thing to a true beer bar I've been to on this trip - well this or Beerkimchi in Fukuoka. It doesn't have 25 taps, but had about 12, all from Japan and then a reasoanble can selection, again all from Japan. I apprecaited really their commitment to highlighting Japan beer. The taps were cold, they had free WiFi (as I would soon learn, a rarity in Kumamoto) and it was a great time to sip a few. As I'll explain in a bit, I almost wonder if them having a nice beer bar like this was a sign of their more localized and less foreigner-forward appraoch.

Dinner was at Yokobachi, a famed local izakaya (famed enough it was on the AirBNB hosts list of their recommended food destinations). They too have the same online ordering system that the Izakaya in Nagasaki had and multiple breweries. Seems like that particular site is just taking over how it is done across large swaths of Japan. The food list wasn't as zany as I was maybe expecting, but what they did have was really nicely done, from lovely horse sashimi, to a local dish of fried lotus root that is then filled (the holes) with this near horseradish type mustard. They also had a nice fried fish, and maybe my favorite bite which was these tempura-corn dusted with a generous amoutn of Sancho, the numbing spice everpresent at the Unagi spots. Actually, my favorite dish was their quite simply brilliant custard dessert.

From there, I hit up three spots that I think shwoed a bit of what I was talking about before - they were all great, but were mostly all locals and only one of the three *had free WiFi (which had a much higher hit rate are similar establsihments all trip before). The frist was near Yokobachi, and was probably in a vaccuum the best - Bar Ladybird, which was similar in decor and intent to Bar Victor which I liked in Nagasaki. The bar master has created a fantasy world of flowers, plants, etc., including having these elaborate flower box / diorama type creations from which he puts the glass and serves you. It would be kitsch if not for the care and delicateness you know goes into this. The drinls too mostly highlight craft whisky and gin and were all fantastic, if maybe not the wildest things. There aren't crazy adders or flavors, but what it was is pure heart. 

The next two stops were places that I'm sure exist in the other cities but those other cities had more fancy / foreigner focused options. The first was Youth(Craft Beer & Rock), which is just by name perfect - its a bar focused on serving craft beer (all bottles & cans) and playing punk rock music. The music wasn't fully my speed, but I appreciated the specificity. The beer was great however, if a bit expensive, but from my understanding it was quite curated acorss Japan - but this place too seems more aimed at locals.

Certainly the last place, Rock Bar Days, is - an establishment taht has been open 20 years, has a walk of CDs and Vinyls, cheap drinks but nothing fancy, and a good late night food menu (so I can avoid some random noodling around 7-11 / Family Mart). I got highballs of JW Black for $6 (pretty damn good) and some nice beef jerky and listened to the owner playing the entirety of American Idiot front to back after she heard I liked Green Day (I guess the other 5-8 people were fine with it), and it was a great way, if a localized, smaller way, to end my first day in Kumamoto.

2026 Japan Trip: Day 12 - Nagasaki

Day 12 - Rising from the Ashes

Let's cut to the chase, going to Nagasaki means coming to terms with the fact that it, notably, was one of the two cities hit by the atomic bomb at the end of World War II. It isn't as well known from what I can tell as Hiroshima, but it is every bit as real. I knew that of course there will be various things related to the memory of the lives lost and all of it, and was not going to avoid those places even if it is weird to do this as an American. On this second lovely, rain-free day in Nagasaki, I decided to start it off by going there and experiencing it.

Around the area the bomb went off (the hypocenter they term it), there is first a large, modern museum, and then two different peace parks. I did the museum first, and it was really well done. The first rooms are all about the bomb and the immediate aftermath - the destruction, the radiation, the burns, the fires, everything else. From a first room with some mangled metal and rubble strewn around with a section on what they recovered from the nearby cathedral that was completely destroyed, it sets a tone. As does the next room with display case after display case of artifacts and photos. Much like the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh, this one doesn't pull any punches. There is one element of something a bit short of propaganda, where they've very much taken the side that Japan was on the verge of surrender so the bomb was not needed, but I was surprised it didn't outright paint the US as monsters.

That said, the last third of the museum is all about the nuclear proliferation from that point on, including some really well made diagrams of the size of stockpiles and amount of tests done by each country, and a really detailed timeline on how the world has wavered off and on around nuclear proliferation. Again, there is no malice in this, and understandably, the museum takes a very strong stance supporting denuclearization. On the whole, the museum is excellent. 

The parks next to it are also nice, the first one which has what they believe to be the actual hypocenter, is mostly a small circular arae with a moving 20-foot high sculpture of a woman and baby, with simply the date & time of the bomb on it below. There's also then an obelisk like thing at the hypocenter. This area is a restrained and solemn. The other park, which is far larger, takes a more vibrant approach. Firstly, the statue there, entitled the peace statue, is large, audacious albeit still quite stunning. There's also a good 15-20 sculptures earlier up in the park that are mostly gifts of remembrance from various countries. Sadly, all the signage was in Japanese, so unless the sculpture itself had on it some info on its source (a few did, like ones from Brazil, Bulgaria, Egypt and others) it was hard to know say if a US one was there. The whoel park though is large, vibrant and if anything shows more the strength and reserve of Nagasaki, while the first park is the solemn remembrance of that day.

After that heavy start to the day, I wanted to go a bit brighter, so I headed up towards the one part of Nagasaki I hadn't really gone around in, which is the large hill area at the South end of the city, which houses namely the Glover Garden. Before taht i got a quick sushi nigiri set for lunch at a little sushi joint Sushi Kyo, which was quite nice and something I picked on the fly. It was also the first sushi place I've been to where the main sushi preparer was a woman, which was a nice twist to see.

The Glover Garden is named after Thomas Glover, a Scotsman who lived and helped modernize Japan right after the Meiji Restoration. The area does house his actual house and offices that he used at the time, but also has now expanded to include a larger park taht sits beyond what was his property. You start the route by taking two successive moving walkways (forget the term for them that run at a slight incline) and on this you also get a great view of Nagasaki. The route on teh top takes about 30 minutes meandering throuhg a few buildings, including his primary residence, and various great stonework fountains, plants, and mostly, views. The port is right in front of you, the bridges that cut across the bay leading out to sea are easily visible, as is much of Nagasaki proper. For views alone, it is worth a visit, but the history and the delicateness of the garden are plenty worth it on its own.

You also get nice spots on the walk down from Glover Garden towards normal sea level, from walking past the Oura Basilica, or my chosen handicraft shop, Rumian Glass Work, which is both a shop selling mostly blue glass work (plates, cups, vases, etc.) and the kiln and blast furnace and all that stuff is right there in teh shop. Really nice place and fairly affordable as well. This was helpful as my other shop that I checked out earlier in teh day was selling tortoise shell handicrafts which were ludicrously expensive (I guess fair enough?), so it was nice that this preplanned souvenir spot worked out well.

My last stop was one last ropeway, this one taking you 1,200 feet up Mt. Inasa. The ropeway has maybe the fastest cable car I've ever been on, and you reach the top in about 4 minutes. The weird part, I guess, is taht they run every twenty minutes, so far fifteen minutes it is just sitting there. They do run more frequently in the evening/night, and given how great the view was during the day, I do regret not making time to go at dusk or night, as it probably would look magical. From this angle, with most of the city center right in front of you, the river and bay to the right and endless forest to the left, Nagasaki does look stunning. There's also this really cool thing where at the angle where you can see the peace park peace sculpture (the audacious one), if you are not able to see it, you can press a button and then a green laser light will start blinking near it. No idea how this works, but its a really neat touch. The whole site up there is quite modern, and overall Mt. Inasa was my favorite ropeway of all, even if it wasn't as high up as Mt. Moiwa.

I then headed to the main covered shopping area, not to shop, but to get a truly long overdue haircut, which was a an ordeal. The first palce despite seeming to be empty said they were full - I think it was somewaht racist, but after going to another place where they had a ready to go sign saying that they are uanble to cut non-Japanese speakers because they don't want to misunderstand a request, I kind of get it. Anyway, I finally found a place that would take me, but then realized their razor numbering system is all different. In the end, he asked if I had a photo of what haircut I wanted, and I dug through and found a reasonably close one. I don't think I ended up with hair like the photo, but also wasn't worlds away, and like all Japanese things, the level of precision and neatness in all of it, including a nice shave, was great.

As was dinner, back in the main area, at Osakaya, which has nothing to do with Osaka, and is instead a fairly high-end, but still reasonably affordable yakiniku where all the meat is purportedly A5. I only say purportedly because I'm surprised then that it wasn't more expensive, but the beef definitely tasted buttery and brilliatn enough to be A5. I had one of their set options (rather than picking my own cuts) where you get qjuite a lot for ~$60, including two appetizers (one was a great beef tongue stew), two pieces of wagyu sushi (awesome), and then a series of cuts to grill, and the staff nicely strongly suggest they grill for you - the cuts all looked insane before grilled, adn tasted incredible after. My favorite being the one they termed as a Denver Cut, which was just so perfect. All of it was great though. There's a bunch of yakiniku's and a bunch of price points, and I honestly think this is the best value for money of all I've been to. 

The night took me to spots that weren't open yesterday, starting at Bar Victor, an 80's styled bar with incredibly weird decor, that plays into the pleasantly weird main owner, Victor, who has owned it since the 90s. There was only one other person in there with me (the place at max can hold 20), and I asked him if there are too many bars, and his response was a combination of Monday is their quietest night, and lots of bars just depend on regulars, and many regulars are on leave / vacation as we hit the end of summer. Anyway, Victor was a great place, the cocktails impeccably crafted, and you get a quite lovely broth soup as part of your cover fee.

The next step was Music Bar The Apollo, which was my first true music bar (where they have all the vinyls and what not) in a while, with the odd twist here being they don't really do cocktails, but have a great whisky selection and a really nice sake collection. I opted for sake, whic were all from Kyushu, which I've come to learn is something of a sake hotbed. It was a great way to end teh night, liking the music and the crowd there enough to not venture out anywhere else. Granted, I didn't really have anything else on my list of places I earmarked heading into my time here. Overall, it was a more lowkey night to end what has probably been the one stop that has gone off as close to plan as possible, in a city that has been the surprise of the trip. Kumamoto has a lot to live up to close my mini tour of Kyushu.

2026 Japan Trip: Day 11 - Nagasaki

Day 11 - The Birds and the Trees

I woke up in rain-soaked Fukuoka, easily more rain this morning than there was two days back. Maybe that plus a busy Sunday schedule made traffic on the way to the Hakata station (the main station in Fukuoka) a nightmare, and ultimatley I chose to fast walk the last 4-5 blocks, as I was not making the train otherwise. Of course, I still didn't make the train, as I didn't realize for picking up advanced tickets for JR Kyushu, you need to submit the credit card you used for the purchase into the ticket machine. Of course, I did not have this credit card, and no amount of complaining could fix it. So I missed that train and was out $40. Luckily the next train was only forty minutes later, so this didn't throw off my entire plan for the day, just created a messy, annoying start.

But those feelings of messiness, just like the rain, would be left in Fukuoka - which I should mention ultimately I enjoyed immensely. But the last bit was pouring rain which by stop #1 awy from Fukuoka had turned into just clouds and by the time I reached Nagasaki, a good 90 minutes away by non-super-speed bullet train, there was a healthy, beautiful mix of sun and clouds and I felt I was in for a world of fun. Making it better is right opposite their beaming JR station sits my hotel, the Marriott (using a free night and points), and a fancy mall. Now, this may give a slight misrepresentation of Nagasaki at large, as certainly not every part of town is as fancy as this, but the parts Nagasaki does well it does incredibly well. 

Lunch was in the food court of the fancy mall - as on the fifth floor they have a series of restaurants, including the one I went to which has a Japanese name, but mainly serves offal soup. Now, that sounds weird, and bad, I know, but it is most certainly not. First of all, calling the meat in it offal cuts is probably slightly mislreading - if they called it tendon and collagen and trimmings it would be more accurate. Not sure that would be greatly more appetizing a name, but either way it was a great hot pot experience. The broth itself is great, the cabbage in it is so fresh and becomes so good when simmered into softness, and their little sides of horse sashimi and pickled vegetables are great. On the whole, best lunch I've had for $15 on this trip.

I have a fairly full set of plans for the two days in Nagasaki, and decided to cross off the furthest afield, which is still just 20-minutes by cab away, which is the Nagasaki Penguin Aquarium. The drive out there is stunning, rolling hills, areas of shore and bay, nice bridges - very reminiscent of Busan in a way (which is not too surprising given how close Busan is). The Penguin Aquarium is weirdly great - the weird part being the lingering thought of "why is this here?", as notably penguins do not live in Japan - anywhere near Japan really. But of course, those adorables little fluffballs are very famous anime / cartoon / toy characters and I think that is part of the popularity. The aquarium itself is small but loaded with penguins - they have one semi outdoor space for the ones coming from more temperate areas (Chile, Africa, Australia, etc.), and a second floor indoor area for the more Antarctic ones (rockhopper, macaroni, gentoo, king). They are all adorable, includikng a few non-adults (calling them this as i don't know if they classify as "babies"). The aquarium also has a fairly well stocked two level fish tank mixing various species, and then little side exibits on shellfish and jellyfish - but this place is about the penguins and it does that well in spades.

From there, I headed back into town and started my Nagasaki city-based sightseeing by seeing the Suwa Shrine and nearby Nagasaki Cultural Museum. The Suwa shrine is quite lovely and ornate and for better or worse, takes great advantage of one of Nagasaki's defining features - its hilliness, almost like a Rio de Janeiro in that way. The shrine sits up about 200 steps, and four gates, and from the bottom or top the views of this in front of you are stunning, but the experience on teh steps is awful. Doesn't help when the sunlight has made it a good 10 degrees warmer than it had been heretofore on teh trip. Anyway, the shrine was quite nice, but the cultural museum was better, not only becasue it was indoors.

As always there was a temporary exhibit, which didn't really speak to me this time - it showed various art that looks quite different in a lit room v dark room - interesting concept and fascinating to see but probably I'm not the target audience. Seemingly kids are as they packed the place. The main part though was showcasing in lots of detail the history of Nagasaki, which is a super interesting one. I didn't know this coming here, but Nagasaki was essentially the only port that foreigners could visit / exchange goods at for a good 300 years during Japan's inclusive period. Also with its proximity to Asia and being basically the biggest Eastern port, they've had at various points significant enclaves of Chinese, Dutch, Portuguese. All of this was explained in great detail, including a mini exhibit about the underground Christianity that survived through this dark period in Nagasaki. There is also then an exhibit where you walk through a replica of the old tatami-mat and bamboo government offices that sat at that point. The museum was fascinating, really, just to get a better sense of how special and significant Nagasaki was.

The last sightseeing stop was the Nagasaki Prefectural Art Museum, which is a really modern, beautiful building that straddles a small canal that leads into the bay. The museum is all glass and truly is something to look at. Inside, they had a feature exhibit showcasign various art and sculpture from Kyushu students that all placed well in competitions, and it showed as some of these pieces were really inventive and beautiful. The main hall showed their personal connection, which is 50/50 local Kyushu and Nagasaki artists, and somewhat oddly, art from Spain (including a few Picasso's, Miro's and a Dali). Apparently one of the main benefactors of the initial museum was a Japanese dignitary to Spain back in the early 1900s, but it still is a bit odd that this museum so heavily showcases just these two places. Either way, it was a really nice museum, and there was a roof garden from which you could some great views of Nagasaki port and the mountains on each side. The sunshine helps, but I don't think I've been to a city that "looks" better so far.

The final stops before heading back to the Marriott for the club appetizers (which replaces my usual craft beer stop for these two days - not a bad thing as craft beer seems fairly limited in Nagasaki) was wandering around the main shopping and entertainment district. Getting there from the museum required me walking adjacent to the Dejima area, which is the name of the whole port part, but now it signifies a 5x2 block area that has been kept to look like it would've done at the time of the Dutch. The main shopping area looks all Japanese though, and had some pretty cool shop faces especially in the areas with teh covered mall look (something that seems pretty omnipresent in Japan). Overall, very impressed me first day meandering around.

Dinner was back in that area (most of he restaurants, and nearly all the bars are either in that main area or bordering it), which was my first this trip at a true izakaya. Now, I've kind of back-loaded those, as I have one my first day in Kumamoto and planned at least one if not two for Kyoto. They too were using the same online ordering system most of the craft breweries I've been to have been using. More than just the app they've embraced modernity with really nice plates and decor - but the food was classic izakaya and all quite good, favorites being a great sashimi platter, a great thing that translated as "duck ball" which was strips of confit duck, green onion and some chewy thing in a meatball, and the karaage. The sake was great too.

After a liesurely nearly two hours there, I hit the town which was fairly quiet (it is a Sunday, after all) but quiet only in Japan terms. I had two stops in mind, the first being Bar Nagarre, which specializes in fruit-based cocktatils. I tried two, including a really excellent yuzu one that is among the better fruit based cocktails I've had. The scene was also lovely, and the bartenders here continued the trend from Fukuoka of being on the more talkative side. Sadly, Bar Nagarre is closed Mondays - in fact of all the places I shortlisted there was a nice 50/50 split of those closed Monday v Sunday, as if they had all made a pact to split the two quiet days.

The second spot was Cellar Lamplighter, which has a Germany Dive Bar style (obviously, being Japan, it is still cleaner than any dive bar), and had an extensive whisky, brandy and gin based cokctail list. I tried one which was something like a Brandy Alexander, which was great. Oddly, they also had a selection of local craft beers, which was weird (and went against my statement earlier of there not being beer bars in Nagasaki), so I tried a local IPA which was excellent. 

The last stop for the night was at Bar Ibex, which I read was a more social drinking place, but seems at least on Sunday, its a karaoke bar - but not the type where you reserve rooms and what-not. It is just a bar which also has an open karaoke set-up. The vibe was gerat. It was quite crowded as there was a group of 10 or so that all work at a popular hair salon who are off on Monday (sad, as I would've gone there for my haircut). Wasn't shocked to laern this since they were all incredibly attractive, but they were also super personable (the alcohol helps - the owner was slumped over) and it was a great way to end the night. Wouldn't have guessed that Sunday Night in Nagasaki would be my most social non-club night, but as the day already showed me, Nagasaki never fails to surprise. 

2026 Japan Trip: Day 10 - Fukuoka (Itoshima)

Day 10 - Lost in the Forests

Today was the first day in a while that wasn't impacted by weather, and went off basically as I had planned it from start to finish. Granted, technically I swapped my morning itenerary from something I initially had planned yesterday, but the swap made added sense since my first stop was a good 30 minutes south of the city, and today I had a car. For the second time, quickly grabbing a car from Budget was a simple process, admittedly with not quite as spiffy a car this time as last.

Anyway, from leaving the AirBNB at 10am, I was at the Daizenfu Temple & Kyushu National Museum complex by 11, which was a good pace. I say complex because these two things are connected to each other by the "rainbow walkway", which think of as an above ground version of hte O'Hare tunnel (with similar-ish lights). I did the museum first, as parking is easier there, and it was lovely. They had a special exhibit which was all about Japan during the time of the ice ages, with fossils of animals, artifacts, etc., to book. Again, I found myself quite pleased with the specificity of the special exhibit. The permanent one was if anything an even more elongated, detailed and picturesque view of what I saw in the City museum yesterday, as in a series of rooms you are told the story of really Japan itself, from the time right after the ice age (stretching a bit) to modern day. The artifacts were all interesting, including some really great sections are stuff the Japanese received as gifts during the height of the silk road days, and overall it was a fabulous museum in a large, regal building in the mountains.

The main temple complex was similarly sprawling and grand, one of the better ones I've seen on this trip tp be honest, and reminded me of the my favorites in Kyoto, Nikko, etc., with the added luxury of it being all flat (I guess when you are already a good elevation, no need to go higher). The buildings were a royal red, and really had some nice carving work. The side shrines had some great sculptures of gods, deer and more. Overall, the temple was great, the museum was great, and this is all worth the trip out here. 

What made it better is my main spot for the day was Itoshima, a day/half-day trip to the East of Fukuoka, a town that closely hugs the coast with beaches adn peaks and much more. Itoshima sits about 30-40 minutes away from Fukuoka, and I was 30 minutes West, but it made something of a triangle where I could drive the hypotenuse, and still get to Itoshima in about 50 minutes. The town is beautiful, with some amazing scenery and sightlines. It is a must-do day trip when in Fukuoka, though I probably don't need to say that specifically, since I think its pretty much an unavoidable part of a Fukuoka itinerary.

My first stop was lunch at a place that is a tonkatsu ramen bar by day and izakaya by night. It is the first place on the trip whose name even on Google Maps is in Japanese, so can't really give a recommendation, which is a shame since it was very good. I'm not a huge ramen fan overall (far prefer pho as my go-to asian soup) but tonkatsu ramen is probably my favorite variety, and it was quite excellent - soft pork, great noodles adn a really hearty broth. They also had a nice side of karaage, which as always is excellent. My guess is they're still very, very good when in izakaya mode. 

My first stop sightseeing wise was the Senyo-Ji Temple, the main temple of note in the Itoshima area, which is up a bunch of winding roads, which I will admit was a bit scary to do driving on the other side of the road. Anyway, after a while I got the hang of it and got there, and saw my second quite nice temple of the day. This one wasn't all that orante or flashy (it was mostly wood or bamboo base) but integrated itself so well into the surrounding forests, and had a nice tatami-may style series of interconnected houses and rooms to walk throuhg, including a beautiful pond in the back. This is also a must-do sight, and I can see why. The whole palce is mightily serene, if a bit more uphill than I would ahve liked.

From there the other main sight in this part of the Itoshima area is the Shiraito Waterfall, which is up another series of hairpin turns, and results in a really nice waterfall spot. Now, its far from the largest or most impressive, even for this type of waterfall that is more about the closeness and beauty than say Victoria Falls which is more about the overall awe of it. But it is also right next to the road, and has some great views of Itoshima and the sea behind it - which was a nice preview of the next stop. The waterfall also has this weird thing where I guess somewhat purified water from it is then used to live cook pasta that people eat. Strange, but a ton seemed to be doing it, I guess it is a thing.

The last main stop was my mini-hike to the top of Mt. Tateisha, one of three of this mini mountains that sit between the main city of Itoshima and the beach / coast to its North (the temple and waterfall are in mountains South of Itoshima). Tateishi is not the highest, but the one that has the best position relative to the rest, to give you the best views. It is not a long hike, but a damn arduous one at fairly steep levels throughout the 800m from the trailhead to the peak. I was close to dead by teh top, but man are the views great throughout - the Bay on two sides, rolling paddy fields on the other, the mountains behind you, and then even little slices of Fukouka peeking out on the other. It's a pretty magical setting that was, in the end, well worth the effort to get up.

The rest was a drive on the coastline, with two mini stops, before heading back to Fukuoka - first one being at a random small farmers market type thing selling mainly eggs but also dairy, produce and, for me, a brilliant cappucino. The last was the Couple's Stones and white gate on the beach - sights like these are fairly well known from photos and there are a few strewn around Japan (particularly common in Kyushu). I wouldn't go well out of my way to see it, but it was a fun spot, and especially beautiful as I arrived at the beginning of sunset, to end my time in Itoshima.

Dinner was at Yakitori Koto, which was one of the first meals I booked, and one of the ones I was the most excited about, because it was new - much like Masa three nights back in Sapporo. I had not done a proper Yakitori before. I was determined to do one this time, and Yakitori Koto stood out. It is a really impeccably decorated, designed and pampering place. As expected, the skewers of chicken were so sublime, so fresh, so juicy. The prepared plates, which all used some element of chicken (be it gelatin, shaved chicken, consomme) were excellent. Their final plate of chicken curry was brilliant. On the whole, I am all for the yakitori experience, and this, to some degree, completes my various array of different types of fancy meals, from yakinikus to omakase sushi, to tempura, to kaiseki, to a more traditional one and now yakitori.

For my after dinner activities, I had a lot of time to play with, since tomorrow I am fairly timebound by a train at 10:45. I started by replaying my stops the first night, at Bar Petrol Blue, which nicely for them was more crowded than it was on Thursday, and then at Citadel, which is just a peach of a place. Petrol Blue is as well, with some really great craft gins and whiskeys, this time me trying two half portions of craft gins which were both excellent. Citadel was packed, but I was welcomed back as somethign of a returning hero, enjoying another nice sampler and a play on a martini which were both awesome. 

After repeating two stops, I did want to try somethign new and that led me to Transform, which is a place that even more than Kieth Flack, was after my heart. Up a narrow staircase, you get into this dark, lively little spot with incredible sound system and AC, and on this night three great DJs. The drinks are good and cheap. The crowd was teh friendliest out of any place I had been to in Japan to date (no idea why). It was a place I didn't want to leave, and was sad I didn't come to before. On the whole, it was a great capper to Fukuoka. Out of all the things I look for in a city, the only place where Fukuoka isn't like a 5/5 was cocktail bars, but even there they are quite good - just not up to Sapporo, Tokyo, etc., but from everything else, Fukuoka is a great place and probably the star of the trip so far.

2026 Japan Trip: Day 9 - Fukuoka

Day 9 - Meandering through the Rains

Once again, weather is playing around with my trip. Now, I should say this day ended up quite fulfilling, mainly because tomorrow there is no rain, and there are enough indoor things in Fukuoka to just switch around the orders. If anything, it played better, as I'll have a car tomorrow, so reaching the further out Daizenfu Temple area will be far easier / more affordable tomorrow than it would have been today (not sure why I had planned it for today, to be honest). Checking forecasts further out and it seems I will get relatively lucky in Nagasaki and Kumamoto. And looking back at my time in Sapporo, while rains elsewhere made planned day trips impossible or nonviable, where I was itself was rarely rainy. So I probably shouldn't overly complain. Plus there is no more umbrella friendly country, in terms of every stroe and building front having umbrella holders, than Japan. Add those things up and it still easy to have quite a productive day.

It started with the first of a few museums (what can I say, I am a museum guy - which is especially helpful on a day like this where being indoors helps). The first was the Fukuoka Art Museum, which sits not too far from my AirBNB, near the larger Ohori Park, which I would have loved to walk around more, in the end for the park I could only snap a quick picture of the wide expanse of lovely lake. The Museum itself is quite worthwhile, with a lower floor focusing on "pre-Modern" art, and the top floor on more Modern stuff. The lower floor had a great mini-exhibit where they showed all the statues and sculptures that used to be in a now destroyed temple, andx then a couple other rooms that went deep into prints, pottery, tea sets, etc. The modern floor, however, was wonderful. Not too over the top in terms of contemporaryness, and mostly Japanese artists, with some legends thrown in, including a beautiful Dali that I hadn't seen before, a Basquiat (who I really don't get, but that's an aside), and a Picasso and others. Overall, the trip to the Art Museum was lovely.

From there, it was about a 15 minute walk to my planned lunch spot, but that also happened to have on teh way a temple and two stores I had shortlisted to visit. The temple was nice, but a quick stop given the rain (and honestly it isn't a super notable one, other than it being in a location near a lot of other more interesting things). The shops were both lovely, and a two minute walk from each other. The first is Suenega Folk Art, which is run by this lovely odler man, and has just a collection of all random high quality wares, handicrafts, etc., of all types - where I bought a nice teapot after much deliberation. The second is called Faucalt, which sells higher end china and pottery, in a lovely almost barn like settting - truly the decor of some of these stores is excellent. 

Lunch was at a place called Yanagawaya, which is a steamed unagi place. That's all they serve, and they are damn good at it. You walk in and there is a smell of a combination of steam, smoke and eel and it is salivating. You sit and basically pick what quality and size of eel, and if you want it over rice or rice on teh side (or only eel). You then get a great small plate of pickled vegetables, a lovely, super clean miso soup, and then the box of unagi. The rice has its own sauce or something in it, so the rice by itself is great, but break up the perfectly steam-cooked unagi over it and it becomes somethign amazing. There's also this Japanese version of Sichuan Pepper (the mouth-numbing one) that these places have that I liberally doused over the dish. I don't think this rose to the heights of the Unagi place in Kamakura that had a few more sides and the just grilled / fire preparation of eel may be slightly better (that is the more common than this just steamed version) but still, Yanagawaya was awesome.

After that it was back to museum land - first was a small two-room building called a museum but was more a store. It sat right across the street from Yanagawaya and was not on my list, but the name intruged me of a fossil museum, and truthfully that's what it was. The fossils though were on sale - most $1,000+, but to be fair that may be super reasonable for what I would believe to be real fossils. That was the audible, but the real next museum was probably the best I visited so far, named the Fukuoka City Museum. It has only two exhibits, a permanent one that works almost as a walking history of Japan, but more specifically of the Kyushu/Fukuoka araes, from the first peoples in the area (i.e. Siberian folks who came over land) through to today. It is told in painstaking deatail, but lovely detail, with a ton of interesting images, sculptures, art, etc. The other is a special exhibit, which for right now was a long tribute to the art of Yokais, the spiritual monsters that were all the rage in Japanese mythology and art in the 1600s-1800s. From long scrolls, to prints, to sculptures, it was really engrossing - I love when one of these special exhibits is laser focused on somethign so unique and interesting like this.

From there, I walked around taht little stretch of Fukuoka, which is land taht was reclaimed in the 1980s and hoists a bunch of modern looking buildings, including the Fukuoka Tower. Overall, Fukuoka is a really modern place, a mini-Tokyo, with teh added advantage of more water, be it this area that borders the sea, or the canal/river areas closer to where my AirBNB and downtown Fukuoka is. I would get a gerat look at that on my way to dinner, as the restaurant was on the bansk of the river. The buildings, the architecture, it's all so lovely and modern. Truly as just a city, Fukuoka is really impressing me (should note by this point, the rain had stopped).

There was one fairly mid stop in the middle at the Fukuoka Asian Art Museum, which had two of its three exhibits closed, but didn't really have any exterior signage, which is a bit annoying. I don't think I've ever been to an art museum where every exhibit is open, but for 2/3rds of them to be closed was annoying. The only upside was it brought me to the more commercial and business end of downtown whcih was glistening and had some great coffee options for a quick pcik-me-up.

Dinner was at Goh, a famed Japanese-French mashup tasting menu restaurant run by Goh Fukuyama, who while being known as one of the more famous chefs in Fukuoka, is also Gaggan's good friend. I randomly sat next to him on my 2022 Gaggan visit (he arrived about 30 minutes late, but when we were later told who it was, it made sense why in this case Gaggan had his staff wait to start the meal). Sadly, chef Goh wasn't there, but the rest of his small team (Japanese restaurants truly to miracles with small staffs) served a truly wonderful dinner. It was the closest thing to a classic tasting menu as I will have on this trip, but that was apprecaited in this case. The cooking was incredible.

Despite the meal taking 2:40, since it is a one-serving at 6:30 start, the night was still early. That's definitely something I'm not a huge fan of, be it here or a few days abck at Masa. These early dinners lead to early night outs which gets rough. Luckily, I took the next thirty minutes or so just walking around the canal area of Fukuoka, including a large extended semi-open-air mall called Canal City, which had a man-made extension from the real canal running through it. It was all tremendous. As was my night stops in this part of the city, of Bar Lapin and Bar Cherokee. I'm not really sure where they get these names from, but with the quality of drinks, who cares. Lapin was probably slightly better of the two, but that may be it was more crowded and a bit more lively. I live in this weird place where I abhor places that are overly crowded, but also get a bit sad if I'm one of just two or three there.

The last stop was back at Kieth Flack. Tomorrow, they have a group coming that is more mainstream so I will probably try somethign else, but all the clubs I shortlisted are in this area near my AirBNB (this was a coincidence, though a great one!), but on day two of my Kieth Flack experiecne it remains a great, great place. The artists were more my style this day, especially on its second floor which was about as close to perfect as I can think of in a setting like this. Writing this (the next day, obviously) I am already reconsidering my idea from a few sentences ago to try somethign else - it's taht familiarity crutch coming back. Let's see what tomorrow brings, but for today, ending the night at Kieth Flack was perfect.

2026 Japan Trip: Day 8 - Otaru to Fukuoka

Day 8 - The Scotland of Japan

Ironically, I probably spent fewer hours doing touristy things today, but packed more in, than yesterday. It was a packed agenda with a clear starting point, the 9:33 train from Sapporo station to Otaru, and a clear end point, the 4pm train from Otaru to the Sapporo airport. Once again, the weather was obliging me, holding off for most of the day, ironically until 30 minutes before my flight was supposed to take off. Anyway, back to the better stuff.

I made the first timebound train by the skin of my teeth. Granted, there was another one thirty minutes later, but that was a slightly slower train, and left unsaid until now was two more constraints - first a train from Otaru to Yoichi at 12:24, and the reason for that train, the tour of the Yoichi Nikka Whiskey distillery at 1pm, a coveted whiskey tour that I was fairly lucky I could nab a spot at.

The first train was fairly routine, and as we reached Otaru with the clouds actually giving way to sun (a rarity on this trip), I called an early audible and gave up the botanical garden, which is at ground level, for another ropeway, this one being the Mt. Tengyaku ropeway, that of course leads to the summit of Mt. Tengyaku. This is about half as high as the Mt. Moiwa one, but in that sense Otaru was way less than the half the sprawl of Fukuoka, though from the summit you see how bit it actually is. The ride up was quick, the views form the top excellent, including as Otaru is a truly coastal city, a great view of the Sea of Japan (assuming Trump hasn't renamed it yet...) behind you. Despite the prevalence of skiing, the areas I've gone to in Hokkaid aren't the highest or most mountainous, but they are rolling cliffs and hills and still quite beautiful. Similarly nice, talking about skiing, was the little three room museum to the legacy of skiing in Japan that was in the ropeway top station (there is a parallel ski life operable in winter). All these trips up mountains have taught me is I probably should make another trip to Hokkaido in winter some time.

From there, I took a cab back to the city center, and specifically the Sakaimachihondori Street, which is a stretch of about 10 blocks taht are in the old school edo style, withs shops and little eateries. It was all lovely, especially the beginning stretch which had stores selling merch and goodies of various cartoon / anime characters - my favorite beign teh Snoopy Village store at the beginning. Not sure if my love of Snoopy is replicated by teh rest of Japan as fervently, as the two other ones to charcters I am unfamiliar with were more crowded. The rest of the stretch of land included some really nice souvenir shops, from kitchenware, to fans, to knives and more. Now none of these things are particularly notable for Otaru as a place, but it was still a lovely stroll.

One thing is well known in Otaru, and that is glasswork. There is a large museum taht sadly I didn't get a chance to visit wuth English-style stained glass throughout. Aside from that museum, however, are about 5-6 boutiques selling glassware, of which I ambled around a couple of them, and ultimately settled on one place and a really nice frosted designed sake holder/pourer as my main Otaru swag.

At this point it was time to head back to the station to catch the local train to Yoichi. This is a 25 min train ride that hugs the coast and you get some nice views of beaches and rock formations, all with the Sea of Japan just glistening behind it. The other side of teh train, which mostly becomes hills and forests super quick, had some threatening clouds overhead, but it stayed dry, which was a great help because the Yoichi Nikka Whiskey tour involved a good amount of outdoor walking.

The tour overall is excellent. Yoichi was the first place that Nikka Whisky company set up shop after founder Masataka Taketsuru studied whiskey production in Scotland, married a Scottish girl, and came back to start distilling whisky in Japan, first for the original company that would overtime become the Suntory conglomerate, and then by his own founding what would become Nikka. He picked Yoichi because the climate, weather, hills, etc., reminded him of the perfect conditions (chemically perfect) of Scotland, and once the tour guide mentioned that part if all clicked together. The distillery groudns and buildings are also built and styled to what he saw in Scotland, and in truth they did a great job. Walking around it, I did feel like I was one one of the scotch tours I took in Scotland. The tour itself hit all the normal spots those did, but also his old house, and a few other notable buildings, and included a free tasting (the tour itself is free, though requires reservations well in advance). Overall, it was a great time, made even better when I realized you can by Nikka Whisky's main bottles here for about 25-30% less than in the US - so of course I took one.

From there, I headed back to Otaru, and headed to a restaurant uncreatively titled Sushibar - I say that in jest as the sushi itself, from their lunch set to their tuna trio (I ordered both - combined bill $25) were great, despite the boring name. This will be my last sushi in Hokkaido, and I can confdiently say the level of sushi is insane, froim the high, high end of Sushi Sohei, to the slightly above mid-level of Tuesday's lunch and today's. The last bit of tourism in Hokkaido was walking a few blocks on the Otaru Canal, which is lovely, tree lined and brimming with life, be it boats or fellow walkers. Overall, Otaru is a charming little town , and I would think a must-do day trip from Sapporo.

The whole day, there were thunderstomrs in the offing, but those held off, and continued to hold off. Some would call this lucky, and it definitely on aggregate was. But then it started to get real dark when in the airport. We boarded on time, but then I could start to see the white flashes of lightning. Frustratingly, ANA only gave update announcements in Japanese, and more frustratingly, their text message service that will text you incessantly about unneeded updates was silent on this, even as it was clear we woiuld be delayed. Finally, the first of what would end up I learn being a wave of storms, passed in time for us to take off an hour late, and of course we didn't make up a minute. Never when you want to make up time is there a nice tailwind. Anyway, Japan is super efficient with getting bags to baggage claim, and Fukuoka's airport is right off the city, so despite landing at 10:00, I made it (with suitcases) to my dinner at 10:35 - twenty minutes behind the reservation time.

The dinner was my first of another type of meal, this time the set beef dinner, where you get 6-7 dishes, most featuring some element of wagyu, one or two featuring the real thing and then finished off with fried rice fried in the wagyu fat. My first one of these ever was in Nikko randomly on my 2023 and was quietly one of my most memorable meals from that trip. This maybe wasn't at that level, primarily because the steak was slightly less sized (it was a couple pieces of four different cuts, vs one single cut) but it was great. The starters were a beef tongue taco (nice), a salad with tuna and beef marrow (excellent), a beef cutlet bolinho (came with a great thin bbq sauce), and then the main plate which had various charcoal fried pieces - some veggies (all quite nice, especially this sauced onion) and then the stars of a sliced wagyu beef tongue (the best tongue I've ever had) and then two pieces each of loin and rump, which were wonderful. One day I should just bite the bullet and get a full wagyu steak at one of these places, but even in limited portion sizing they are excellent. Then came on the sizzling plate cuts of "lemon steak" which was a super sweet cut of beef that I'm not sure what it was, but from this sizzler came the fried rice. The whole meal was great, and actually looking back it is right up there with the one in Nikko, and at a lovely downtown location as well.

From there, it was already fairly late (11:45) but I did want to do a quick whistle-stop tour of a couple Fukouka bars before hitting up the somewhat legendary Kieth Flack (which nicely is two blocks from my AirBNB). The weather held off tonight before what is expected to be rain most of tomorrow, but we'll get to tomorrow, tomorrow. The first place I went was Bar Petrol Blue, another great music bar specializing in craft whiskey and gins (e.g. no real cocktails, other than if you want to add one of their numerous house bitters), and it was a lvoely setting with a really nice bartender/owner. From there, I went half a block away to Citadel, which is a reputed cocktail spot that has a whole host of their own concoctions, and about 70 types of craft spirits, which are basiclaly all flavored alcohols, but flavors such as "Chorizo Vodka" and "Beef Jerky Bourbon". I name those two because along with '"Fig Brandy" I got a sampler of three, and wouldn't you know it, the Beef Jerky Bourbon tasted like beef jerky. It was weird, but excellent.

Weird but excellent is probably also a fair way to describe Kieth Flack. First off, the building looks from the outside like one of the gaudi buildings in Barcelona. Inside, it is the perfect level of grime, along with great ventilation. There are two main floors (apparently threr ias an infrequently used third floor too) which play similarly house/EDM type music. The day I went, neither was too hard, if one being a bit too start and stop for my liking (granted, I don't know if I can really define what my liking is). The place though was just a great level of crowd, fun, with cheap drinsk (cash only) and nice decor to roam trhough like posters and vinyls. The place on the whole is quite awesome, though I worry about how crowded it may be tomorrow when I plan to return. But that's a fear for tomorrow. Today was about a nice way to end the one day that worked out based on my original plan in Sapporo, and a nice introduction to Japan's South Island of Kyushu.