We had been going pretty much wall to wall in Rio the first three days. Granted, probably less so than I did solo back in February (and yes, it annoys me how much I keep bringing that trip up...), but still quite busy. My parents were a bit burnt out, and we know there is a lot to come in the next few days in Atacama (despite tomorrow being essentially a write-off travel day). So they chose to stay and enjoy the hotel spa, do some local shopping in Copa, and basically just live a relaxed Rio life until our sunset bay boat tour later in the day, which come to think of it is the definition of a relaxed Rio life.
Anyway, I would not stand for such laziness, so I ventured out towards Gamboa (our planned neighborhood of Rio for the day) to first just take in the beauty that is the Museu de Amanha from the outside (it's also nice from the inside, but probably only worth it once - had my parents come we would've done it) and then walk over to the Rio Museum of Art, which I was pleasantly surprised by as it changed all of its exhibits since I visited in February. They were still leaning towards showcasing art from the ethnically aboriginal or African side of Brazil, but doing so with great care, curation and aplomb. From some stellar modernist paintings of grief and battle, to great tapestries from the jungle, to an exhibit about the life and the art inspired by such life of Vinicius de Moraes, the legendary Brazilian poet, lyricist and writer (the guy who wrote Garota de Ipanema - what we then butchered into the Girl from Ipanema), which even though the various stills and what-not of his life weren't all that interesting, the art, paintings and sculptures accompanying them were.
From there, I headed to my other intended museum, the Modern Art Museum of Rio, which sadly was a dud because it was closed as preparations were ongoing to convert it into a event stage and then club for New Year's. We'd learned through these few days in Rio what we probably knew, that New Years is treated as religously in Rio as Carnaval - from large stage and audience areas being erected on Copacabana, to now this. Rio throws parties like no one else, but I guess it does take time to prepare for such things. Sad for me but great for the city. There were some nice views of Santos Dumont airport, various hills and nice buildings and manicured gardens adn such near the museum to still make it not a complete loss.
The last stop pre-boat tour was maybe the most valuable by the end. I wanted a light lunch given our tasting menu dinner at Oro later in the day, and was craving a beer, so found a home for both at Brewteco (where I didn't try what seems to be well reputed food earlier), and there was one in Botafogo, with a graet view of the city. The view was 100% true, as Brewteco takes up the terrace level (so roof but open sides) of the Botafogo Beach Mall, a nine story modern ode to commercialism. Somehow, Brewteco's food was nearly as good as the view, as their classic Burger por la Pobre was excellent. If anything, my biggest ask for a burger at a non fast-food joint is that they don't over sauce / oil it to where the bun starts getting soggy. Nothign wrose. Here, despite having quite a nice local spin on mayo, the bun held firm. The beer was also good, the view even better. Even if you aren't a beer person, you should make a stop here.
In a similar vein, as I would soon find out, even if you aren't a boat person, you should do the lazy three hour sunset boat tour of Guanabara Bay. For about $40, we got three hours on a fairly well sized boat (held the 15 guests and three crew easily), with an open bar (granted mostly just various versions of Cachaca based cocktails, but still good) and endless views. The boat leaves from Urku (so essentially the neighborhood at the base of Sugarloaf Mountain) and steers leisurely for about an hour out fairly close to the full other side of the bay, near Niteroi and the Adam and Even beaches, where it drops anchor for another hour, where you're free to jump into the brilliantly warm Rio bay waters, splash around and be merry. Then the tour concludes with one final hour heading back taht coincides with the sun starting to descend and then ultimately get hidden behind the various hills that make the backdrop of Rio from this angle. It's run at perfect pace from 3:30 to 6:30, so technically ending before the actual sunset, butgiven the sun is not visible by the end, it might as well be. All of it was great, but the views were something special.
At this point, I've extolled the views of Rio from the top of Christ the Redeemer, from the top of Sugarloaf, from flying out of Santos Dumont if you're lucky to snag a window seat (only relevant for the last trip) and now from Guanabara bay, and rightly so. They are all great, but honestly I don't know if this isn't the best one. This is the msot classic image, from ground level, far enough to see the city splayed out. Yes, you dno't really see Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon from this angle, but you see everything else - the full range of hills, peaks and mounds, Sugarloaf in all its regality, and of course Christ the Redeemer lording over the city. It was stunning, and a great way to end the tourism aspect of Rio.
Similarly, we ended the culinary part of Rio in a great way as well, going to Oro for their tasting menu. I'll detail it later, but I will say the sad element is that they had largely unchanged their menu from when I went in February apart from say three of the eleven snacks, and two of the four mains. Now, there are michelin starred spots that change less than that over a ten month span, and the dishes that remained also remained really tasty. My parents loved it, but I was dismayed a bit more that I couldn't get a table at Lasai at a reasonable time (they had one 10pm seating on Friday) as I do think my parents would've equally liked it and they probably would've switched up more of the menu. Anyway, Oro is still very good and reasonably priced for a two-star Michelin spot.
After that, my parents went home (we do have to get up for a 7:30 taxi to the airport tomorrow after all...) but I wasn't going home early on a Saturday Night in Rio. In the end, I only went to two places. The second was to D-Edge again, which while in some ways it is quite corproate, the acts are good, the drinks are cheap, the setting is excellent, and it is always at minimum a good time. I don't think it will rise up my EDM club rankings, but not fall either.
What may rise is the other spot, going to Liz Cocktail, a short walk/drive from Oro. It was more crowded than before so I had to sit outside, but with teh cool air settling in that was fine. The cocktails here are just great - so well mixed where you can definitely feel the alcohol but all the o ther flavors they are trying to add in, like Sesame into a martini, or Hibiscus or Apricot or Endive (yeah, that was a weird one... but still worked). My only quibble is their rather early 1am closing time, saying that being this is Rio de Janeiro (where people eat late) and a Saturday. I could've tried at least one more of their new styled menu (they went away from the weird music thing from last time) and been a happy camper. In the end, that little quibble can't overcome how good their drinks are, and can't dampen what has been another great four days in Rio de Janeiro. I'd never been to Brazil before 2025, and now spent eight days in ten months in the same city, and somehow am still not really bored by any of it, which is probably the best compliment I can give it.
