This trip centers around Christmas in many ways. It is the midpoint of the trip (though in its earlier half from me being off of work). It is the biggest holiday of the year, both in my family and in basically any given country in South America (though I guess in Brazil you can argue Carnaval-time is bigger). It also created some logistic complications, namely not knowing what would be open on either Christmas Eve or Christmas Day. There was a whirlwind trying to find answers.
The answer for Rio seemed mix, in that at first I read Christmas Eve is the bigger holiday and that Christmas Day isn't really kept up. Well, while Eve is probably bigger in Rio than Day, Christmas Day is absolutely kept up in teh sense most things are closed and everyone is off and having a good time. Few restaurants are open Christmas Eve, and the ones that are, are selling upcharged buffets or set menus and the like. Not surprising I guess, but again creating some logistical hurdles. We reviewed multiple buffet menus at the top hotels (that's basically the other option for Christmas Eve dinner). Some were luxurious but stupid expensive (Grand Hyatt), some cheaper but also clearly more budget (a local boutique hotel). Some annoyingly gave no real information on what was included in the menu (Sheraton), and then there was our hotel, the JW Marriott, who had a price right in the middle, and a decent spread - not as good as the Grand Hyatt, but affordable enough to still make it reasonable to do a tasting menu to conclude our time in Rio on Saturday night.
Anyway, I'm skipping ahead. We landed fresh off the redeye with less sleep than we would like, and a weird hotel situation where by Brazilian law they were forced to upgrade us to a suite (seems to be true, and at no extra charge), but also then the one suite that would come available wasn't available until the evening. Not ideal, as we were hoping on a quick nap. Instead we took a quicker nap in the lounge, had a coffee (or three) and omelet, and we were off to see the city. Going in, this first two days were mostly going to be things that I had seen before - and not only before, but quite recently (ten months ago), but having been through the wonder of Rio, I was more than happy to showcase that to my parents as well.
Our first stop was the Jardim Botanico (Botanical Garden) located in that same neighborhood of Rio. The downside was there were not many flowers blooming - for instance the Orchid greenhouse had maybe five actual orchids. The upside was with my horticulturist Mom, I actually probably took in and experienced more of the garden this time around, from learning about the cannonball tree, to the jackfruits (omnipresent all over Rio but something I missed completely the first time). The laneways of gigantic palm trees, some with a peek of Christ the Redeemer in teh back, astounded them as much they did me ten months ago. The botanic garden one the whole was a good time and nice introduction to some of Rio's defining features - the searing heat, and the lovely lush greenery.
We took a quick lunch at Braseiro de Gavea, the much reputed quick steak spot, which was nearly as crowded today as it was when I came on a Sunday Night (weird comparison, but it was hopping basically but not to the point it needed a 45-minute wait). The picanha set with farofa and rice and what-not is normally portioned for two. I had to pony up and order it last time and finish half. This time, we ordered it and between the three of us still finished half. Not sure what that says about our *collective appetites, because the steak was incredible - fatty, tender, juicy; everything you want from a steak in Brazil.
The final stop of the day was the Christ the Redeemer. This was not as crowded (a graet thing) as it was when I came last, so uncrowded at the bottom we were able to take the tram scheduled 20 minutes earlier than our booked one. If anything, I found Christ the Redeemer more impressive, in both teh statue itself and the incredible panoramic view of Rio it gives you, this time. My parents were astounded, by Rio's sheer size, the beauty of its curves, hills, lagoons, beaches, etc. We also came at the perfect time of the day, as the Sun was starting to descend right behind Jesus's head, creating this amazing halo effect from a heads-on view. He came out to paly on his birthday.
I guess I lied, the real final stop of the day was the rooftop bar/pool of the JW Marriott, to take in sunset and watch Copacabana beach down below. Friom this aerial angle, Copacabana beach is truly stunning, with the hills on either end, the lines of Quiscas (beach shacks / kiosks), the wavy tile print. All of it was a scene for the senses.
The night ended with the dinner buffet, which was a mixture of things. The food was like most buffets at upscale restaurants - there were a handful of truly great items (in this case, most of the cold appetizers including squid and white beans, cod fish salad, heart of palms, and then nearly all the desserts) and then some taht sound gerat on paper but are just not ideal for mass, bulk preparation, like duck leg confit or filet mignon. But on the whole aside from the food, they had wine included which were mostly all from Argentina and very good, along with great decorations, a live bossa novo band playing Christmas classics (and then for the second half, random songs but still quite good), and a jolly old santa. Wasn't the most traditional Christmas, but I guess a fairly traditional carioca one.
Day 15 - A Christmas in Rio, Pt. 2
As mentioned, I had initially Christmas Day wasn't really kept up. That was dead wrong. Nine out of Ten restaurants I looked up were clsoed on Christmas Day (the general theme seemed to be open for lunch on Christmas Eve, and then closed thereafter). Same with bars. We woke up lazily, catching up on sleep after the red-eye the day earlier. The idea for the day was mostly lazily stroll on some of the most famous beaches in the World and then visit the other incredible, awe inducing set of views that is Sugarloaf mountain to try to time it up with sunset. On the whole, this mission was accomplished.
To begin we just took a stroll on Copacabana, mostly on the wavy tiled sidewalk running parallel with the beach, which is a vibe of itself of street vendors, quioscas, and a throng of humanity, probably 80% locals. The beach wasn't nearly as full now as it would get later in the day, but it definitely seems the Carioca way to celebrate Christmas is very much like the Carioca way to do most things I imagine - by going to the beach. We are firmly not a beach-going or beach-loving family and still found it enticing.
This was the morning prelude to mass at noon at the Basilica Imaculada Conceicao (Immaculate Conception), which is a grand regal old church built into what is now an urban maw of Botafogo. The church was shockingly empty given until I realize there are dozens of churches in Rio proper, each with 4-5 masses. Also, luckily for us, it seems clear people in Rio realize just how hot it is and threfore a lot of shorts, sundresses, t-shirts in church without anyone batting an eye (India, please take note). The mass was quick, efficient, and even afforded us a few moments to take some pictures of what is still a lovely basilica afterwards.
We headed back for lunch which was yesterday's leftover Picanha and Banane Farofa, both still quite good the day after. I think it shows just how damn good the picanha at Braseiro de Gavea is that it remained incredible juicy and tender despite being blasted in a microwave for 30 seconds. It wasn't planned this way, but meal solution #1 for a day where most stuff is closed was a success.
After lunch we headed to Ipanema beach, Copacabana's slightly less well reknowned neighbor. It was throbbiing with people, as expected. As we walked along Ipanema, it became pretty clear to my parents what it was to me - that as far as a beach goes, Copacabana is supreme. Ipanema however seems the one that is always more crowded. Both have similar set-ups, with the beach apportioned lightly into sections with a tent renting chairs, towels, etc., in each section, each tent the master of their slice of sand. This system seems to work very well, along with the vendors on the street selling caiparinhas, beers (chopp - their term for a cold as hell draft beer), various wares, etc. We didn't go into the water (saving that for tomorrow in Copacabana), but did grab a beer at one of the quioscas and just watched life go by. We aren't beach people, but Brazil is trying its best to convince us otherwise.
Then it was time to go to Sugarloaf, again timed up well to do the visit of all the cable cars, all the views, all the pictures, etc., and then end it with seeing the sunset. I still think the views from Christ the Redeemer are better (higher up, central to allow you to see basically every part of Rio) but I do think from a "where can you get the best picture of what Rio is?" perspective, Sugarloaf is probably better in that you can get that one picture of Botafogo, Flamengo, Centro areas (the more modern part), with Christ the Redeemer int eh background, and a peek of Copacabana appearing as well. Not sure if my parents agreed, but they did found it all as amazing as I did, from the views, to us happening upon a marmoset, to the shops, to their ice cream they shared, to my craft beer, to it all. Sugarloaf is just a great experience (which si good, since the ticket for foreigners is roughly $35-40). But all of that doesn't even begin to explain how magical sunset is there. The sun sets over the mountains behind Rio, and gives this most amazing glow to all parts of the city. Pcitures hardly do it justice, even when the pictures are pretty incredible. I would maintain my favorite single viewpoint in the world is seeing Cape Town from Signal Hill (also an amazing sunset spot), but Sugarloaf might be #2.
Now it came the real challenge, which was finding a dinner spot, but the solution ended up better than expected, and allowed me to check off one of the few things I didn't do on the first trip. There's a Boteco chain (basically a bar that serves appetizers or steak type place) called Boteco Belmonte, that has kept its spirit despite now having high-single-digits number of locations strewn around Rio. It is almost always packed, as it was when I attempted to go for food last time. Well, as one of the few places open Christmas night, it was still crowded but we got a table after about a 10 minute wait, and then got to experience a true Rio experience.
My dad had his first Caiparinha. I got to say "choppe" a couple times. And above all taht, the food is quite good also. Their starters of various open pies, empanadas and bolinhos with various fillings come served by servers rotating around the room with a plate full of them - almost like a dim-sum type set-up. They were all great, with a really good food to bread/farofa ratio. Way too often these bolinhos come with it being 80% breading, but these were the opposite, adn so good for it. After that we also had a serving of linguica, which was close to the type we get in Mangalore, and a heart of palm soupk which was the only miss in that it was just above average. The experience though of Boteco Belmonte was excellent, and even for a place that is something of a known tourist spot, a quick scan had it like 80% locals (or at least people speaking Portuguese).
Parents night ended there, but I didn't want to sleep just yet, so I headed back to Gavea to visit Brewteco, a craft brewery Boteco style, which is another chain that has done well but kept its spirit. This place was throbbing, again mostly with locals. It seems the locals that do stay back in Rio for Christmas do want to get their energy out on Christmas night, and it was jsut a great scene of people largely between 25-40. The only hiccup was this system where you can't order at the bar, but have to order through one of seemingly three waiters for a place that probably had 300 at that point. Many people were annoyed by this, seemingyl some locals. This extended to me, who was sitting at the bar, but in the end I enoyed my three half pours and left near their Christmas Day close of 1:30.
Rio at Christmas is what I expected in all the good ways - it's a time to visit the beach, it's a time to enjoy the outdoors and stuff that doesn't close. It's a time to get some sun. It's a time for afamily and santa and red and green, sure, but also picanha and heart of palm and all those other things. I guess what I'm saying is in the very best way, Rio at Christmas is also Rio in February (when I went) and probably Rio in October as well, in taht it is still great. Just maybe ensure you check all establishments instagram to figure out what is open and what is not.
