For this purpose the days got a bit squished. Not that I didn't do a lot and enjoy every bit of it, but as I sit here writing the first part of this after my first experience with domestic travel in Turkey, I definitely gave too much deference to it.
Anyway, the day began with a misty morning, and with me doing reverse math back from a 6pm flight which had me needing to get the cab at 3pm. This was tough - especially since my planned site for the day was the Topkapi Palace which given potential wait times couild be rushed. Instead, I decided to defer that to Wednesday, couple it with the Dolmabahce Palace on teh same day. The mist forced me inside as well.
The main tourist activity of this day was the Istanbul Archaeological Museum, based in the shadow of the Hagia Sophia and the Topkapi Palace. The museum is well laid out, and even despite having a couple of exhibits closed, was a very good time. The ground floor had a series of Sarcapohogi picked up from around Turkey and Syria (oddly), and then a long stretch of sculpture including room after room of busts from Ancient Greece adn Rome. The top floor also spoke to this part of Turkish history. The museum basically stops at the fall of the Roman Empire.
And why not, if anything Istanbul's long history as an important part of this world under its past names of Byzantium and Constantinople get often overlooked. This museum was a testament to that era, from the sarcaphogouses, to a room of all types of tiny coins that was quite cool to see, to a great exhibit around the 10 layers / iterations of Troy in the bedrock, fit with a (fake, I'm assuming) giant stone in teh middle with the layers visualized for everyone.
The sculpture section was something else though. You can right up close to them in a way that is more intimate and fun than in the large museums of a London or a Paris where they're all on a pedastal. Sure, none are world famous, but many so intricate. There was a wall of busts of various emperors, including 4-5 of good old Augustus Caeser, teh one at the time of Christ. The museum as a whole was excellent.
As was my lunch ad Hocapaca Pidecisi, a whole in the wall family run Pide spot that is super well reputed in the travel blogosphere, and for graet reason. Simple place, simple picture menu of their various Pide's, with what I assume are lifelong business partners if not outright family making them in a giant tile oven in the ground floor. I got one with minced lamb (the standard) plus bacon, aptly titled the "Sinner". This is a special spot.
It was also on the path back towards my AirBNB that took me near the Egyptian Bazaar, which is basically a giant spice market. Now, it was a nice stroll but my one question is that each stall sells basically the same thing. The same collection of 15-20 spices, plust 10-15 herbal teas, plus various desserts. They're all interchangeable. How any differentiate themselves is super lost on me.
The time at the airport was quite sad, if only that I needn't leave that much time. The domestic check in counters and security were fairly empty. It left me an hour in the Turkish Airline lounge, which was strange. The lounge was fine but nothing special (assujming this is because it is the domestic one). The weirdest part is that they have a system where you can board from teh lounge by bus that takes you to the gate. Which is nice, except they take you basically at the last possible moment where everyone else had boarded. Luckily I had space for my carry-on. Not a fan of this service, less so the fact that there was seemingly no other option.
Soon enough we were landing in Izmir and after a weird AirBNB address probloem, I had checked in and ubered to their main restaurant & bar area, which borders the sea. I had vague memories of really enjoying Izmir 17 years ago, and so far this was more than proving itself. The calm air, the suniness (after two dreary weather days), the great life in the city even it being a Sunday.
Dinner was at Tavaci Recep Usta, which is a white table cloth, giant hall serving lamb in about 40 different ways. I had two styles, one a take on an Adana Kebab but crunchier, served with a great sauce to make little pita's with. The second was a braised lamb on a hot griddle with light veggies. Super interesting, not at all what I would've pictured as Turkish, but it worked nevertheless. \
After dinner was getting lost ambling around various alleys that go from the seaface road (all restaurants) to a open esplanade that is pedestrian only two streets in. There is about 4-6 alleys in a row that are all a series of bars of all types. One road is primarily clubby, which I'm going to pass on (too much Bangkok going on in these bars, if you know what I mean...), but the others were quite lovely. First a place called RePUBlic Beer, which was a beer bar that served about 50 various Turkish craft beers. They have a pretty good craft scene going on, even if it is hard to find the stuff conventionally. Had both a "cold IPA" (not sure what made it col - other than it was very chilled, but so is most beer), and a really nice Stout.
They were closing early (Sunday), so I ambled a couple alleys over to Studio House, which was a multi level bar that had some good cocktails - a rarity from what I could tell in Izmir. The place was giant, with a large downstairs (like below street level) at the back end with an open cieling. A really nicely adorned spot deep into teh alleys, not what I would've expected to be hidden down these alleys of Izmir.
Similarly was my late night food, which was a kebab rapped in pita with yogury and a red sauce on top - so simple but so good, and a five minute walk from my AirBNB (which is a 10-min uber drive away from the main night areas). Super iunexpected, but a great way to end what is probably a late night given its a Sunday (1am in bed). Big day tomorrow with Ephesus ahead, but a great start to my little jaunt through Izmir.
