= Let's start off with the one biggest negative - the weather was rough. Mumbai is almost always hot and muggy - even in their "dry, cool" season. Well, it was supposed to be dry but this time it wasn't really dry. I narrowly missed floods on the day before I traveled there, but lingering rain led to a flight delay. Rain off and on throughout on Friday interrupted things and made my time in Bandra less pleasant than otherwise. Even on Sunday, which was largely a great weather day, ended with a torrent of rain as I sat in the airport.
= On the other side, the biggest net postiive in my time in Mumbai was the creation of their Coastal Road highway that, while still unfinished, makes driving up and down from and to Colaba so much easier and more efficient. It's quick, it's limited traffic (no two-wheelers). It's a tunnel that can stand up to rain and wind. The Northern Half is above ground but reclaimed from the sea. The fact that wasn't close to existing in my last trip in 2021 and already ready with some further improvements coming by the year end, is honestly an incredible job by India.
= Mumbai's size and scale, especially vertically, is such a stark contrast from Bangalore. There are real neighborhoods here with different vibes and culture. From the greenery of Bandra, to the colonial-style buildings of Colaba and Fort. To the high rises of Worli and Parel. Mumbai just makes sense as a city.
= The food is excellent. None of my meals save for one splurge (Masque, great menu - will be its own post) were new, but all so welcome. There is such great cuisine here. My longstanding favorite is Mahesh Lunch Homes, which serves Mangalorean food (the Coastal food of my hometown), and it was great as usual. Going with my cousin we got four dishes, all great, especially their "Mahesh Special Curry", in either chicken or mutton, half a white curry, half a red.
= My two other top repeats were both Floyd Cardoz spots (RIP). O Pedro was great as always - their elevated take on Goan food is spectacular. However, let's talk about Bombay Canteen which was more out there, more inventive, and more playful than when I went three years back. The dishes were audacious - like a oxtail and bone marrow upma, or a macaroni and lamb curry casserole, or the most smoky, beautiful chicken curry I've had. Floyd Cardoz's spirit lives on in tehse great, great places.
= Bandra is a special place - where my late Uncle lived (a normal spot is a quick step out of the cab to take a picture of his building), where we see hills and greenery and trees. Where we have nice cafes and bars and stores. It is places like Bandra that make Mumbai so fun.
= The one area I will say Bangalore has way over Mumbai is the beer culture. Mumbai has breweries, sure, but there are two key differences that keep Bangalore's way above. First is not fair to Mumbai, but they just aren't as lavish and large in Mumbai. There's just no space. The biggest one I went to was Doolally Taproom in Khar, that probably seats about 100 people at various tables or whatnot, which would be a small fraction for Iron Hill. The other is Mumbai breweries had a weird inclination to serve beer a bit too close to room temparature. Just can't do it.
= Finally, Mumbai has actual clubs, but our return to the place formerly known as Luna, on the 37th floor of the St. Regis in glistening Lower Parel, was not the same. Koshoi was in teh same location (though I'm pretty sure smaller square footage) but has leaned into the worst elements of clubbing, especially in South/Southeast Asia - too many tables, too small a general floorspace, too few bars, too crwoded. Luna had some of these things but had a large common area with tables on the sides. Koshoi was way too table heavy. It was a fun time, but not ione worth repeating.
= On the whole, Mumbai is just a city. A proper one. Yes, it is too crowded and yes the poverty and dirt does get to you at times (granted, the raininess amplified both things), but on the whole this is just a city that knows it is, invests in itself like it is - and may the Coastal Road be even better fitting next time.
